January 8, 2006 • Magazine



Mon, 2006-01-09 00:00

Lauren Dimet

While attending The Parsons School of Design, Doo-Ri Chung was fortunate to have worked with Donna Karan and Stanley Herman. In 1995, she won the Designer of the Year award and apprenticed at Geoffrey Beene where she eventually became the lead designer during her six year tenure.

Since debuting her own fall/winter collection during New York Fashion Week in 2003, Doo-Ri has been known for her use of architecturally draped jersey, fluidity and minimalist detail. She tends to favor translucent chiffon sleeves, suede trims, leather insets and fringes to accent her body clinging and sultry designs.

“Clothes can transform the way a woman feels about herself,” says Doo-Ri. “Great clothing will do that.” She compares her clothes to three-dimensional sculpture: her designs are soft and flowing — yet maintain a clear architectural form. “I like to build a jersey out so that you feel like it’s hugging you, but you’ve got six yards of fabric enveloping you,” she says. “You see the shape of a woman’s form but it’s not tight.”

Doo-Ri’s Spring ’06 collection used some of the same hard edges and tailoring she began using this past fall. Some amazing examples of this were her khaki cotton trenches, one with a stand-up collar and the other with a cascade of ruffles that descended to a belted waist. But mostly, she traded in her flowing knits for silks and satins. Some critics have claimed that the flow is not the same as her jersey numbers.

Doo-Ri spent four years launching her own business from her parents’ basement. Even though she recently moved her business to Manhattan’s fashion district, “It was so much easier when I was designing in obscurity,” she says now, “because I had this time to really grow. Now there is so much more scrutiny. People take apart my clothes and ask what direction I’m going. But I still do everything: draping, cutting, sewing. Anything that has been presented in a show, my hand has touched.” Doo-Ri maintains her look is “a work in progress. I can’t nail down my style. It took Mr. Beene 30 years to be who he was.” We don’t think it will take that long.

Sources: New York Metro,,

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