Not for fans of the frilly or the purveyors of the merely pretty, Phillip Lim’s fall collection may be difficult for those who are oblivious to detail and subtle irony. He manages to tap into the somewhat darker pre-war Deco trend with the mystery, intrigue and hidden secrets of double-breasted coats and trenches and colorless, nondescript faces. Tiny decadent details like silver buttons and patent leather accent what could’ve been drab everyday garb (almost workhouse grey), as well ad his infamous dresses and jackets.
Colors and Textures: A strong presence of white, black, charcoal, mushroom. He also injected shots of navy blue, checkered red and black plaid and camel. Patent leather also makes its mark on cropped jackets and bowties alike. Shiny jewel tones like copper electric teal in silk stand solo or hide under white blazers. Pale grey, white and black legs mimic colorless faces.
Key Looks: Lim’s charm lies in his dresses. Feather-light ruffles attached to a simple white dress and sheer grey sleeves with scultpured white cuffs are what give overt feminine detail. His geometry is visible in his necklines and in the silhouette created with fabric cinched and shaped by belts and scarves.
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