Known for their taste for the exotic, early 20th-century Parisians embraced the seductive style of Russian emigrees. It’s Templerley’s interpretation of this fascination with the color and extravagence of Russian nobility that makes her vibrant interpretation of Art Nouveau (in contrast with the Deco trend) inspiring and innovative. So forget about furry caricatures of a Russian aesthetic and embrace Temperley’s nuanced vision of Russian romance.
Colors and Materials: Amethyst, cobalt, burnt orange, and gold. Clean elongated lines are created with prints and knitwear, as well as more luxurious materials like velvet, glimmering gold lurex yarn, chenille, and lace. Victorian jackets are paired with harem-style, Cropped Court trousers but not without regal embellishments of crystals, pearl and gold. Temperley’s flair for the theatric is also evident in her technically advanced corsetry, encrusted bodices and collars, bejeweled headpieces– and use of a (no, really) a fedora.
Key Looks: Signature butterfly pattern on a black/amethyst Intarsia empire mini-dress. A black jade mini-skirt with a Prussian sheepskin coat. A long Napolean lace honeysuckle skirt can be seen alongside a cream and black duchess top. Baggy, pleated trousrers are paired with a tunci with an Intarisa Zulu butterfly print. The same pattern can be seen on a pink and burnt orange round-neck dress. More butterflies can be seen on a Pegasus dress with a ruffled drop-waist. But lest you think this collection is amiss with too much flutter, Temperely also presents refined cream smoking jackets, a trouser ensemble and a long, black gem studded courtesan dress with a strapless back, as well as a Valentina dress with geometric black and white crossed straps on the front. Electric blue miniskirts, Cropped Court; trousers and two Tsar dresses emphasized her fascination with the fleeing Russian nobles. Temperley’s footwear selections were just as striking– white patent leather lace-up heels and LV black leather heels with gold piping.
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