I had the sense that there were two women battling inside the mind of Vivienne Tam when she designed for this fall season: a whimsical warrior and her alter-ego the flirty femme, who’s mod by day and ready to party at night. I was a huge admirer of the cobalt, maroon and garnet that compliment the gorgeous black canvas of her fall 2006 collection and her spring 2007 line is fresh and crisp– managing to use leafy green, pale sunshine yellow and tangerine in a perfect springtime palette. Her fall 2007 collection is somewhat more ambiguous in its ambition. Clearly her ability to find and delve into a variety of materials is noteworthy. The presence of each ensemble was strong and stood on its own. But maybe (like more than one designer this season) this is where she lost me. Feminine dresses that should have certainly caught the eye of any buyer were sent down the runway next to over-the-top ensembles that, while impeccabley designed, functioned as show-stoppers instead of moments in a well-edited story.
Color Palette: Black, plum, charcoal, orange, sequins, silk, ivory leopard print, chiffon, slate blue, dark teal, wool and velvet.
Key Looks: Dresses are clearly her forte and she works it–from the clean, modern lines of that adorn dresses that would be worn by any mod woman on the go to the flirty, fun and elaborately adorned. One pair of simple black trousers and one pair of palazzo-style shorts are the only pants in sight. Otherwise, the patterns styles and waistlines each stand on their own as eclectic additions.
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