Like a good architect, a good designer knows when to let his own personality step aside and let the clothes (his version of built structures) speak for themselves, complimenting and not crushing their subject: in this case, the woman wearing them. As WWD.com pointed out, Francisco Costa’s fall 07 collection for Calvin Klein is a triumph of architectural minimalism and return to the sparse sophistication we fell in love with in the 90s. His integration of these stoically restrained pieces with "sweetheart necklines, space age effects and sexpot shoes" is without a doubt a delight. But admist all the celebration of the Calvin we grew to love (not to mention buy) I wonder if this, like the other collections that tapped past eras, was a relief because it was simply something we knew or because it has moved fashion forward.
Color Palette and Materials: Beautiful and tranquil shades of gray, forest green, a dazzling cobalt blue, black and white. Like his color choices his choice of textiles are just as humble: wool, felt, silk, lace, fur leather and knits.
Key Looks: Shiny structured suits alongside pretty dresses that aren’t afraid of curves or the bold geometric patterns of black beads. Outerwear in various manifestsions– the parka to the trench were pared down and chic, relying on shine for their energy. A double-breasted wool coat just as elegant as his simple tunic-stylel dresses. Superb energy and a buyer’s dream.
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