Nobody can accuse Rick Owens of selling out. (At least not in any store that I know of..) But there is such thing as the agent provocateur of sorts and then the guy who sells himself out. This season, I think Owens got lazy.
That being said, I want to reaffirm his credibility as perhaps what could be called the "unconscious"of the design world– and by that I don’t mean ugly and unsightly. In fact, I think Owens’ Spring ’07 collection was lovely. Because the season allowed him to use sheer, silky fabrics he could really explore the inner dynamic of the drape and the fluidity of footwear. Where others might have seen a mess, I could find fashion "moments"
However, when I saw Owens Fall/Winter ’08 collection I got a little miffled. That right, miffled and well maybe a little muffled when I saw all of his thick, heavy and engrossing fabric and fur. Just what does he want me to find? It wasn’t the tailoring or statement from the actual pieces.. nor was it a meta-commentary of sorts. Instead, I felt cheated. Bamboozled and bewildered. I did pause when I saw the cropped jackets and even smiled at the whig-like caps that sheilded his models from the harsh overhead lighhts of the runway. Even the shoes were playful (albeit not useful) but that’s always okay with me. What I failed to see what a strong vision and also and more, painfully, a lack of interest in the eyes and intellect of his viewers.
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