According to today’s WWD, retailers
were wild about a vibrant Paris season sparked with vivid colors, expert
tailoring, innovative knits and strongly individualistic, yet still
very sellable, fashion statements.
"Paris Fashion Week was very
good for the senses. It was a sumptuously chic but very commercial
season," said Marigay McKee, general merchandising director for fashion
and accessories at Harrods.
Collections from such powehouses as
Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Nina Ricci, Lanvin,
John Galliano, Givenchy, Stella McCartney and Dries Van Noten earned accolades, and designers Haider Ackermann, Andrew Gn, Martin Grant
and Giambattista Valli also made it on best-of lists.
key items and trends mentioned by retailers were chunky sweater coats,
masculine-feminine suits, ankle boots, fur, oversized jewelry and Art
Here’s what some buyers had to say:
Cedric Charbit, general merchandise manager of women’s fashion, Printemps
was the best fashion week for next fall. Dior’s show was a magnificent
moment during the week. Other highlights were Yves Saint Laurent,
Balenciaga, Miu Miu, Stella McCartney and Lanvin. Blazers, pants,
pleated skirts and sailor sweaters will be wardrobe staples for next
winter. Key shapes for next fall include a higher waistline, rounder
shoulders, pencil dresses and bat-wing sleeves."
Michael Fink, vice president and women’s fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue
up is de rigueur, from chic, couture-inspired slim day suits and
dresses to drop-dead glamour gowns. Pops of bright summery colors and
relevant fabric innovation also signaled a shift in seasonal thinking.
Dior and YSL were stunning. Sharp tailoring at Givenchy made every
nautical-inspired jacket a must-have. Martin Grant’s collection was
absolutely outstanding. Other highlights included Nina Ricci, John
Galliano, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons. Sharp tailoring,
rounded silhouettes, big jewels, very high heels, shoe booties, big
fur, patent leather and anything shiny all continued in Paris."
Stephanie Solomon, vice president and fashion director, women’s ready-to-wear and accessories, Bloomingdale’s
liked the surprises and how everyone was on their own personal
wavelength, from Chanel’s charming take on ice skating and plaids to
Olivier Theysken’s light-as-a-feather L’Air du Temps collection for
Nina Ricci. I loved Stella’s cool, insouciant London girl and how John
Galliano returned to his roots with incredible dresses cut on the bias.
We picked up Hussein Chalayan and Martin Grant. Messages from Paris
included the coat that makes a statement and the jacket. There was a
movement closer to the body, longer and leaner silhouettes, and I loved
the return of the waist. The feeling was much more sophisticated."
Julie Gilhart, senior vice president, fashion director, Barneys New York
still defines so much of what a total season is about. There is just so
much content here, more than New York, London or Milan. At Balenciaga,
Nicolas Ghesquière’s print story will be influencing everyone for
several seasons forward. At Lanvin, Alber Elbaz captured the spirit and
the mood of the entire season. Stefano Pilati at YSL executed his best
show ever and took a giant, positive leap forward. Dries Van Noten gave
us a beautiful collection that will sell like hot cakes. Riccardo
Tisci’s excellent Givenchy show will definitely be a destination for
the best jackets and pants. Olivier Theyskens’ first show for Nina
Ricci was an exciting new direction for the house, and we expect great
things from him. Rick Owens had some of the best coats."
Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman
was a lot to like. Continuing trends included a predominance of black,
a return of great jacket options, innovative knit dressing and Art Deco
references. There were many collections of special note: Balenciaga,
for its global, eclectic, free-spiritedness; John Galliano, for
bringing back fashion theater, directed by a master; Nina Ricci, for
its dreamy winter-forest palette and innovative spiral cutting; Lanvin,
for having succeeded in establishing a cool, covetable, consistent
signature style; YSL, which feltrefined and polished. My favorite single look of the week? Exit number
one at Giambattista Valli: the striking tomato-red A-line skirt and
Vreeland-esque fitted black V-neck sweater and high-crowned men’s hat."
Ken Downing, senior vice president, fashion director, Neiman Marcus, Dallas
excitement here was in the continuation of color, which we saw
particularly at Balenciaga and Christian Dior. Hot pink came on really
strong in Paris, and it’s something the fashion customer will want,
even if it’s just an accessory, like the hot-pink shoes at Stella
McCartney. Also, that whole polished, dressed-up look continued here in
Paris, and there was one terrific jacket after another. Dresses and
tunics continue, and the idea of a coat and dress combination looked
very new to us. We loved the cardigan coat, and there are terrific
knits all over the market. There’s a very lovely, nostalgic quality to
a lot of clothes that still feels very modern. The customer is going to
be able to dress to her personal style. Our favorite collections were
Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, Lanvin and YSL."
To read more visit: WWD
Photos: WireImageSee the Top Ten Summer 2016 Trends for Women Over 40
Tags: Andrew Gn, Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Comme des GarÃ§ons, Dries Van Noten, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Haider Ackermann, John Galliano, Lanvin, Martin Grant, Nina Ricci, Stella McCartney, YSL, Yves Saint Laurent