Joanne Molina, Senior Editor
How do I love thee? Let me count the days. Although the days were few Couture Week for Fall â€˜07/Winter â€˜08 was packed with both functional and fantastic pieces and a joyful mÃ©lange of garments that paired both qualities. Overall, the mood was light, searching and pensive in regard to proportion. And while you can always read the reviews of Suzy Menkes, Eric Wilson and Cathy Horyn to get your Dior, Givenchy and Armani Prive fix, why not take a moment to look at the names that often escape our lips and take a peek at the designs that dare to be one step ahead.
Color: Bright and ready to delight
Texture: Dramatic and costume-like, form fitting and adorned with everything from fruit to the silverware needed to take a bite.
Style: Multidimensional, graphic and not without humor.
Who says we can’t all be superwomen? Certainly not Portugese designer Felipe Oliveira. Complete with lightening bolts, capes, full head masks and simple wrap-around masks that could almost be retro sunglasses the neon brights and comic book aesthetic looked more like it could be a neo-Neo Futurist movement from Milan or a contemporary take on the Venetian traditional of Carnivale. The only thing missing was their weapons. But then it struck me, the women are the weapons.
Making a collection whimsical and fantastic doesn’t necessarily mean creating costumes. And while I enjoy a modern circus, an over-the-top Marie Antionette and general fashionable fete as much as the next couture devotee, it’s nice to see someone imagine something else. Complete with acid plaids, turquoise and lime green eye shadow popping off the faces of his models, LeFrance Ferrant triumphed with his huge, overpowering, oversized cap-cum-top hats of sorts. His show didn’t have the overt decadence, cynicism or BOLD statement of others but rather reveled in the pleasure of pleasure and comportment (and confidence) necessary to wear his chapeaus.
On Aura Tout Vu
Whether you’re dining out or just having citrine dreams, the On Aura Tout Vu highlights the pleasure of being multidimensional. Whimsical, witty and wonderful describe what came down the runway and in the world of the predictable and often expected, it brought a genuine smile when I saw these shots.
And before lovers of fashion protest too much, remember couture isn’t necessarily about something to wear to the office but wouldn’t it be fun?
Color: Grays, muted pale pastels or monotone tones
Texture: Shiny, flowing and some furâ€”but all coupled with strong silhouettes
Style: Glam, bam, thank you ma’am
If Harelquin romances had a noir side to them then all of the female characters would be wearing Eymeric Francois. Sexy, seductive and sultry these black, white and red dresses and gowns all have a performative quality that could only exist in couture dreams… or in a seedy bar in Berlin where you can still hear the strains of Deitrich in the wee hours of the morning.
From the up swept poofy, frosty pale blond hair to the white fur-lined coats, Craven’s show tells the story of an updated 60s glamourpuss. Sophisticated dark, dramatic eyes contrast with a lady’s palette of pale pinks, winter white, silver and even light mocha hues. Not too mature but not filled with the tell-tale signs of old eyes clamoring for a fashion fountain of youth, Craven presents a luxurious tale of intrigue, innocence and interest.