Joanne Molina, Senior Editor
Just in case you think Berlin is all about the shadowy corners of cabaret’s and filled with the haunting wails of Kurt Weill’s contemporary idolaters you should take a peek at what came down the runway at Berlin Fashion Week. Like the city itself, designers found pleasure in the rigor of substance and an occasional lapse into a frenzy of frivolity.
Smeilinener’s Psychedelic Spring.
Mischa, Mischa quite contrary, how does your garden grow? Tended by none other than a musing rendition of a contemporary jester, Mischa Woeste’s fantastic garden of earthly delights has just the right combination of soulful and silly. Clad in jewel-toned hues that merrily extended from head-to-toe models couldn’t help by smile as they partook in Woeste’s runway fete.
Pop the Champagne. Kaviar Gauche is the Toast of the Town.
Like caviar and champagne, Johanna Kuhl and Alexandra Fischer-Roehler are perfectly paired. The German designers met in Berlin when attending the Esmod fashion school and developed a label with a good dose of the tongue-in-cheek: kaviar gauche, a description of what the French called in “champagne socialist” in the 1960s. (from Mercedez-Benz Fashion Week).
But don’t be fooled by their clever name. This spring the dynamic duo embraced the idea of beauty (and for the most part) sans the irony. Iridescent shine, brilliant plumage of the modern persuasion and body-conscious silhouettes dominated the show while a sampling of ethereally elegant pieces were parsed between the darker shades that flew down the runway.
Strenesse Gabriele Strehle. Seduced by Subtlety.
Since 1995 this German designer has embraced the power that accompanies the interplay of substance, structure and subtlety. Opting to refuse the temptations of flash and frills she relies simple elements such as the drape of her chosen fabric or an elongated hemline. This spring season jewel tones are parsed between white frocks that function almost as cleaners for the palate â€” giving viewers ample opportunity to savor the detail of each garment.
Westwood: Anglomania. Always Ahead.
Like the interior of an eccentric’s English country manor, Vivienne Westwood’s Angolmania collection is infused with a vivacious dose of classic British character. But staying true to London as an exuberant mecca of multicultural style, Westwood takes fusion seriously, but not without a bit of humor (note the footwear).
Photos: Mercedez-Benz Fashion Week