WWD gives us the lowdown on what London designers are up to for Fall ’08…
Richard Nicoll – Richard Nicoll’s collection
may have been inspired by the Amish, but it was far from staid or dour. The designer put a sexy spin on some
austere silhouettes, turning out sheer shirts with biblike collars,
layered chiffon and silk skirts, and diaphanous floor-length
shirtdresses worn over trousers. He also worked some tailored pieces
into the collection, toying with tuxedo trousers and jacket shapes.
Nathan Jenden – Dressed as geisha, Pierrots and Tudor ladies, Nathan Jenden’s girls
flocked to a decadent masquerade ball. The designer’s emphasis this
season was on richly embellished fabrics such as a cobalt
blue dress covered in what looked like tiny silk pincushions. Despite
Jenden’s fanciful tone, there were plenty of wearable party dresses.
Todd Lynn – conjured up his favorite Victorian-Goth muse, but also injected some
Fifties Hitchcock glamour into the mix for fall. There were sharp
pencil-skirted suits, sexy smoking jackets and sleek, form-fitting
cocktail dresses in dark, moody hues. There were modern
details, too, including deconstructed pockets and pleats.
Nicole Farhi – Drawing on an Alpine idyll for inspiration, Nicole Farhi turned out a
fall collection filled with sleek olive wool overcoats, cropped
army-inspired jackets and knit tunics with tiny geometric patterns. The season’s standouts were dresses, however: There were coppery-gold
ones that flared at the waist, gray wool sleeveless shifts and a belted
Roksanda Ilincic – turned out
a refined collection of her signature silk and satin dresses for fall.
They came in the form of chocolate and peach Empire shapes with trains
that pooled on the floor and long pewter or neon pink dresses with
poufs at the waist or sculpted, pointy shoulders. There also were
cocoon coats and stoles lavished with fur.
Jens Laugesen – The designer’s skintight silhouettes — black catsuits and
tourniquet-like cobalt trousers — were extreme, but, in a triumph of
innocence over experience, his gentler styles were the ones that hit
the mark. These included full black-and-blue silk skirts, high-waisted
black dresses shot through with shiny gold threads and a ruffled,
robin’s egg blue shirtdress.
Krystof Strozyna – In his first collection after graduating from Central Saint Martins
College of Art & Design last year, Krystof Strozyna packed a punch.
The designer turned out tight minidresses with sculptural shoulders in
white, hot pink and black, accessorizing them with huge lacquered wood
bangles and brooches.
Meadham Kirchhoff – Edward
Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff’s moody collection featured mohair
sweaters worn with draped satin skirts and pointy-shouldered, tailored
jackets with nubby wool pencil skirts.
House of Holland – London’s DJ-cum-designer-cum-man about town Henry Holland, who made his
name with T-shirts poking fun at models and fellow designers, showed a
wacky collection that took its cue from the Scottish Highlands. He sent
out kilts and tiered skirts in hot pink mohair or purple-and-green
tartans so short they could have doubled as underwear.
Photos: Style.com & NY Mag