New York Fashion Week ’09: Alexandre Herchcovitch’s Army of Love.

September 6, 2008 • New York Fashion Week Spring '09

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Summary: In Alexandre Herchcovitch‘s collection, "Army of Love," the designer distanced himself from others who showed this weekend in inspiration and delivery. Compared to other collections, Herchcovitch’s looks were avant-garde (or not actually ready-to-wear) and extravagant (or costume-y). An intense red light set the mood for the looks that, despite tons of frills and ruffles, still maintained the vision of "strong military hardware, harsh silhouettes, and branded military uniforms." I actually liked the knee-length dresses, which were definitely the most wearable  looks in the show. They featured racer-back inlays of distinct prints and textures and broad shouldered silhouettes created by piled ruffles. Less understandable and certainly less wearable were the ruffled-backed shorts and cropped jodhpur-style pants. Even front row attendee Nigel Barker snapped a photo of one such ruffly bottom with an expression of incredulity on his face! The warm colors, however, created a softness within the hard lines, the balance of which seems to be a theme in many collections thus far. The best balancing act in Herchcovitch’s looks? Easy. A short, structured, military-style dress in camel with a back panel of flowing pink silk georgette. When Herchcovitch was on, he was on, but sometimes his ideas (and his ruffles) just got away from him.

Color Palette: Warm washed colors, Pastels (especially pink), salmon, cranberry, camel, navy

Fabrics & Textures: Silk Georgette, Lace, Embroidery, Ruffles, prints inspired by both nature and Middle Eastern tapestry, pailletes

Key Looks:
Short military-inspired dress with pink silk georgette back panel, printed dresses with full volumed, ruffled shoulders and racer back inlays

– Hayley Wells


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