New York Fashion Week Spring ’09: Vivienne Tam (or as I would call her, Little Miss Perfect)

September 10, 2008 • New York Fashion Week Spring '09

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Summary: I have to admit my bias going into the Vivienne Tam show. I have been an ardent fan of her designs for as long as I can remember. But even if I had never seen one piece before, my jaw would have dropped just as quickly when I witnessed her Spring ’09 collection. A perfect combination of joyous prints and fresh solids, Vivienne gave her audience quite a show. One dress after another came floating down the runway strong in presence but soft in look. There were prints in the tiniest accordion pleating, exuberant fan appliques and complex cutwork, halter dresses that appeared to be two pieces (in two sizes of the same print), and simple sheaths that came alive with sequined tulle overlays of sparkling peonies. Never one to rest comfortably with dresses alone, Vivienne sent sharply tailored suits down the runway, made interesting with easy, one-sided draping at the jacket waists (mirrored in dresses that would follow later in the line-up). And just when a simple jersey wrap dress appeared, a bright pink patent number followed soon after, giving the collection just enough of a jolt to shake things up a bit.    

Color Palette: red, lilac, cream, beige, white, mauve, amethyst, purple, pink, black

Fabrics & Textures: satin, chiffon, silk, cotton canvas, tulle, cotton, wool

Key Looks: red print peony pleated silk sheath; cream cotton beaded sheath; mauve chiffon dress with floral appliqué; white print peony chiffon halter dress; amethyst silk tulle dress with fan appliqué; pink patent sheath; white cotton embroidered dress with cutwork and black patent jacket; white floral appliqué sheath with sequin poppy overlay; white satin sheath with peony cutwork appliqué

– Alison Stewart

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