Summary: Cho Cheng‘s Spring ’09 collection gave us drama, whimsy, structure, and a bit of humor. Showcasing his expertise in seamlessly moving from perfectly tailored suits to over-the-top ballgowns, this collection was joyously colorful and impeccably created. The suits, in rich but lightweight silk brocade and fanciful sorbet colors, evoke ladies who lunch, but with a twinkle in their eye. The suits also gave us details like pleating down the back, subtle peplums, and very short skirts. The formal gowns, some worthy of a wedding day, suggest a formal event…but in a garden filled with shimmering lights. Tulle underlays, intricate ruching, and playful waistlines graced each one. A palette of mint, lavender, white, red, pale pink, ice blue mixed with fabrics with sheen and iridescence in prints like whimsical oversized polka-dots, and the tiniest plaid. Some highlights included a collarless suit in mint green with lavender mini polka-dots, a single center button and beautiful pointed neckline. After a number of gorgeous full-skirted dresses came down the runway, the show closed with a striking white polka-dot evening coat and trousers made specifically for its model, the still-stunning Carmen Dell’Orefice.
Color Palette: red, cerise, sunset orange, miel, pink, olive, grey, violet, ice blue, black, white, lilac, mint, powder blue, ivory, ochre
Fabrics & Textures: silk satin, silk brocade, silk taffeta, silk/cotton blend, wool, silk faille, zibeline, tulle
Key Looks: pink gown in silk taffeta with ruched skirt and pleated cumberbund; violet single breasted jacket in silk brocade with slanted pockets; mint empire waist gown in silk faille with white tulle bunched up at the hem; ochre and green single-breasted jacket in plaid silk brocade with three buttons and boat neckline
– Alison Stewart
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