Water was running; children were running
You were running out of time
Under the mountain, a golden fountain
Were you praying at the Lares shrine?
But ohh oh your city lies in dust, my friend
ohh oh your city lies in dust, my friend
– Siouxsie and the Banshees
Summary: To open the show with Siouxsie and the Banshees' famous 80's song "Cities in Dust" could not have been
more appropriate. It set the mood for the current climate in NYC
and what followed down the runway. As a by-product of the 80's, I knew exactly what song I was hearing as the lights dimmed by the second note…and I also knew precisely what I was going to see. And I couldn't wait. I was going to get to relive my youth…the cool part of my youth. It was all about 80's proportions…strong shoulder focus with a lean, linear line on the bottom. Rock and roll, hard-edged glam. Ruffles paired with pinstuds…what could be better?
Every garment was swoon worthy and wearable…even if it was a little drab. Don't get me wrong. There were shocks of color like purple and cardinal red, but the overall tone was muted. Yigal Azrouël described his fall 2009 collection as "dark and romantic," with a chic tribute to the eighties. The grape one-sleeved, eighties-inspired dress reminded me of Arnold Scassi dialed down a notch and many of the garments were trimmed in leather. Don't worry, there were still the huge cocoon coats and chunky cardigans we learned to love in 2008 and I covet the skinny jeans made to look like mid-thigh high leather boots (leather from mid-thigh down). I could have done without the numerous high-waisted stovepipe pants, but the asymmetry and expert draping more than made up for them.
One request, please stay in the tents! I would still travel across town to see this show, but was so thankful I didn't have to.
Color Palette: ivory, bone, cardinal, melange, camouflage, ivy, concord, grape, putty, bark, heather grey, carbon, jet
Fabrics & Textures: jersey, washed silk, silk mousselline, chiffon, techno crepe, cashmere, wool jersey, boiled wool, stretch wool, double-faced wool, wool angora, washed cotton leather, leather, mink, jacquard, taffeta, tulle, ruffles, metal pinstuds
Key Looks: printed wool blanket coat with a jet tarnished metal fringe top with jet washed cotton leather stovepipe jeans; jet asymmetrical peplum mini dress; ivory double faced stretch wool flange collar dress; jet flutter collar puff sleeve blouse with jet leather stovepipe pants; grape techno stretch melange dress; bone washed silk wool amorphic blouse with jet wool jersey Nordic pants; jet embroidered chiffon jersey gown.
– Lauren Dimet Waters
Photos: NYMagSee the Top Ten Summer 2016 Trends for Women Over 40