New York Fashion Week Fall ’09. Cho Cheng Revisits the 90’s

February 17, 2009 • New York Fashion Week Fall '09





Remember back in the 90's when women were seen wearing extra long,
double breasted suit jackets with matching pants? And they of course
came in just about every color. Well, this is exactly what Cho Cheng's
Fall 2009 collection resembled. Cheng's signature look has become his
military inspired jackets with British tailoring. While these jackets
in turquoise, cherry, canary yellow and key lime were well structured,
I found them to be above all, a little humorous. It was almost as if
Cheng was paying tribute to the flight attendants of the 1990's. A time
when scrunchies and fanny packs ruled the streets. An era, I believe,
most do not want to return to. Some of the lengthy jackets were paired
with even lengthier skirts, which I thought made for a dowdy match.
However, the mini organza can-can skirts that graced the runway
contrasted well with the form fit of the buttoned jackets: fun and
flirty verse polished and conservative.

Cheng has said he designs for both New York and Chinese women in mind.
His well tailored, mandarin collared jackets are perfect for tai tais
(ladies who lunch).

an effort to create sequin and satin gowns with bows and detailed
trims, Cheng did not prosper. Kudos for trying, but the ill-fitting
busts on nearly every dress made for an awful attempt. After a sea of
blonde wigs and close-fitting ensembles, the finale piece, out of
nowhere, was filled with volume. The white satin gazaar gown and head
piece was oddly out of place. In that case Cho Cheng, please stick to
what you know: well tailored pieces.

Color Palette:
Turquoise, black, cherry, ivory, canary yellow, red, midnight blue, key
lime, sage, leaf green, rose pink, pale blue, bubblegum pink,
raspberry, ink blue, violet, aubergine, navy, charcoal, champagne,
silver, white

Textures & Fabrics:
Mohair, velvet, cashmere, tweed, silk, organza, houndstooth, mandarin collars, sequins, metallic, bow details

Key Looks: Leaf
green tweed single button jacket with pale blue piping and pale
blue organza mini curtain skirt; black satin faced organza mini skirt
with floral rouching; black velveteen double breasted jacket, white
satin faced organza mini can-can skirt with pattern beaded scarf

-Allison Merzel

Photos: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

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