New York Fashion Week Fall ’09. Narciso Rodriguez Takes No Prisoners

February 17, 2009 • New York Fashion Week Fall '09

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Summary: Yes, I know. You are expecting a rave review from me about Narciso Rodriguez's Fall '09 Collection. Don't worry. You are going to get it. I have to admit, after seeing the show I had to let it gestate for a while. It was a severe departure from the exquisite Spring collection that is still fresh in my mind from last September. If you were once again expecting flowing gowns, you were going to be disappointed. Yet, if it is sculptural modern minimalism speckled with jacquard and lace that catch your fancy then this is your collection. Camouflage prints and militaristic shaping can only mean one thing…war.

The show began with khaki wool which was crafted in the signature sculptural seaming and paneling he is known for. The looks were streamlined and very architectural. After a few in khaki and black we were not in Kansas anymore. Highlighter yellow and pink came down the runway…and it was awesome. The tight stretch bandage dresses we saw last spring were perfected with with graphic cutouts or paired with black scuba-like hoods. The most amazing dresses were those overlaid with black lace in criss-cross patterns which appeared almost draped, but fitted. They were exquisite. As was the white silk crepe dress with black camouflage lace (how did he do that?). The black felted wool and mohair jackets with 'amno' belts must find their way into my closet. Some way, some how. I was also in awe of the four pewter silk coats and dresses that were each breathtaking in their own right.

I love that Narciso Rodriguez is true to his vision, but seems to keep evolving like a perpetual student. He took a risk using colors you never would have dreamed he would use, but hat's what makes him one of the best American sportswear designers of the time, and judging by the star-studded front row, I am not the only one in amazement. Bet you are wondering if there was anything I didn't like. Well, I didn't care for the nurse white tights. OK? Oh, and the Albertus Swanepoel bucket hats with cut out eye-holes kind of freaked me out, but were cool in an unsettling way.

If I hear one more comment about it not being a Michelle Obama collection I will scream. First of all, who cares? And second, don't be so sure you won't see her in some of this collection next fall. Hear that Ikram Goldman?

Color Palette:
white, khaki, citrine, highlighter yellow, highlighter pink, ultra purple, purple, blue, grey, pewter, bronze, platinum, onyx, black

Fabrics & Details: silk, silk charmeuse, silk crepe, crepe, viscose, lurex, knit, stretch wool, wool twill, wool tweed, wool gabardine, alpaca wool velvet, cashmere, mohair, silk jaquard, lace, beading, amno belts, felt hats

Key Looks: khaki wool twill coat with a white viscose knit x-neck and khaki double wool gabardine pants; black felted wool twill coat with amno belt; black camouflage lace/white silk crepe dress; black embroidered mohair jacket; ultra purple silk crepe dress; pewter silk jacquard/black silk crepe dress; onyx matte lurex/wool tweed jacket and pants; black camouflage lace/citrine beaded silk dress; black embroidery/highlighter pink silk crepe dress

Oh and by the way, Narciso's new fragrance 'Essence' is yummy. More on that another time.

– Lauren Dimet Waters

Photos: NY Mag

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