Summary: Stark, simple, elegant with an eye on architecture and futurism, Calvin Klein's Francisco
Costa delivered a dark, but amazing fall '09 collection. His body conscious designs were minimal, but at the same time sexy. Just not overtly so. Costa referred to his tone-on-tone looks as puzzle pieces with a focus on fabrics and textures which built upon his successful collection from last spring.

Color Palette: ivory, acid yellow, evergreen, sulfur, charcoal, black

Fabrics & Textures: silk, wool, velvet, jacquard, felted wool, plisse, laser cut velvet, laser cut felted wool, folds, buttons, paneling, paillettes

Key Looks: black crescent-hemmed silk and wool coat; grey silk tux jacket with ivory cropped silk pants; paillette-embroidered lace dress; shimmering painted velvet dégradé coat; sulfur laser-cut velvet dress; evergreen symmetrical one-shoulder gown

– Lauren Dimet Waters