The Cruise 2010 collection for French luxury line Celine marked a milestone for premier designer Phoebe Philo. The resort collection was the designer's first for the house and included a totally restructured Celine look. Typically known for featuring girly details like ruffled tiers and eyelet, the Celine image, as helmed by Philo, is shifting into a new form of feminine. Philo chose a more neutral palette for many of her designs, creating ensembles for the new York debut in various shades of tan, beige, and brown mixed with black. She also introduced a more masculine element to the tailoring with structured, clean lines and minimal embellishment. Her true joy, however, seemed to lie in the fabrics. She claimed to have engaged in “massive fabric development,” with an emphasis on bonded
textiles and increased the use of Italian fabrics over French ones, which Philo noted, "are more couture, until you step outside the evening gowns."
In keeping with the collection's theme of industrial chic, Philo arranged for several Italian men's wear factories to participate in the production of her line, including famed apparel manufacturer Caruso.The collection features utilitarian separates, some fastened with oversized, tough-looking
zippers. The more feminine aesthetic was illustrated through simple, wide-cut silk chemises and men’s wear suits revitalized in
filmy chiffon over nude linings. The outerwear included a
streamlined classic camel coat to a demonstratively proportioned
cape. Her eveningwear offered a standout cocktail dress
encrusted in rosette-cut crystals and cinched with a copper belt. The collection also offered a variety of handbags and accessories, from shoppers and shoulder bags boasting mixed-metal hardware to platform pumps in perforated black leather. Philo seemed satisfied overall with the unique resort collection, stating, "This feels like a good solid start."
Article and Photo Source: WWD
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