New York Fashion Week Spring ’10. Organic Colors And Shapes at Costello Tagliapietra

September 11, 2009 • New York Fashion Week Spring '10

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Summary: What can I say about Costello Tagliapietra after they offered one of my favorite collections last season? The burly lumberjack design duo may have done it again. The colors of their Spring 2010 Collection were both unusual and beautiful, and the shapes of the dresses are always flattering. I noticed there was a waist emphasis on each and every piece, not necessarily tightly fitted, but always a focus on the waist. One shoulder looks, deep V's at the necklines and backs, sash ties at the back of the waist, soft elastic encased in gathers around the waists and envelope folds created these soft modern shapes. There were a few two-tone looks that used one color for the entire front of the dress and a different color for the entire back, another technique that flatters a woman's figure. Some pieces were actually tops and skirts made to look like dresses. Among my favorites is a smoke colored jersey top with a Crystallized-Swarovski Element detail paired with a jersey pleated skirt.

The colors were organic and intense. The innovative fabric of this season is AirDye, a revolutionary technology that dyes and prints textiles without using water, which is safer for the environment and also produces watercolor shades and effects that cannot be achieved with standard printing. This was how they produced the awesome Popsicle and sky shades we saw on the runway. My only problem with the Costello-Tagliapietra collection would be figuring out which piece to chose.

Color Palette: Moss, acid, sprout green, violet-bronze, fox, doe, amethyst, beige, buff, lake, doe orange, AirDye sunset print, ash

Fabrics & Textures: Washed silk, jersey, taffeta, organza, gazar, satin embroidery, Crystallized-Swarovski Element, draping, envelope folds, cowling, pleats

Key Looks: Moss/acid AirDye taffeta two tone draped one shoulder with satin embroidery; Doe orange jersey draped dress with contrast back; AirDye sunset print taffeta wrap Smoke jersey top with Crystallized-Swarovski Element detail and smoke jersey pleated skirt; Beige washed silk folded dress with Crystallized-Swarovski Element detail

—Carol Calacci

Photos: NY Mag

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