New York Fashion Week Spring ’10. Modern Proportions Take Shape at Yigal Azrouël

September 11, 2009 • New York Fashion Week Spring '10

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Summary: I've always been a fan of Yigal Azrouël and was not disappointed with his Spring 1010 Collection. It consisted of wearable, comfortable and livable casual pieces. There were modern constructed menswear style long vests with padded shoulders whereas slashed t-shirt style dresses were deconstructed. Always with a interest on the back -  one jersey dress had a zipper that seemed to float down the model's backbone. The long jersey slashed dresses were quite elegant, and still casual, however in light stone or grey it takes a toned body to wear.

This designer translated how the 80's influence has morphed into new shapes that are totally wearable in 2010. Cropped comfortable menswear trousers, long boyfriend jackets, vests, and loose mid-thigh shorts (in leather!) were included in this collection. He used a lot of grey jersey, but here the look was not "'Flashdance" as Yigal Azrouël got the proportions of the silhouettes balanced to look new and modern.

Typical of Yigal Azrouël's aesthetic his looks were…atypical! Examples included silver embroidery on the shoulders of a jersey top, lacerated jersey with an allover ropelike effect on a dress, and sculptural shaped insets of black and nude on several of his dresses. Particularly innovative was a boyfriend-style jacket all in leather with the exception of jersey sleeves. He surprised us with a few shocking colors among all of the muted tones with bright pistachio and flame. He also showed a few beautiful modern swimsuits with straps all over the neckline that I thought would not be good for tanning. But, after all, tanning is so… 80s! And Yigal Azrouël was here to show us something new.

Color Palette: Jet, nude, heather grey, admiral, stone, bisque, dark stone, flame and pistachio

Fabrics & Textures: Jersey, viscose linen, washed leather, linen cotton, jersey chiffon, washed cotton, silk, insets, slashed jersey, laceration, zippers, tuxedo stripes, banding and embroidery.

Key Looks: Jet washed viscose linen jacket, admiral scalpel embroidery top, jet washed nappa leather shorts; Jet/nude scalpel embroidery dress; Jet washed nappa knit sleeve jacket, stone raw drape top, and jet double face über jersey embroidered pant; and Stone lacerated jersey dress.

—Carol Calacci

Photos: NYMag

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