New York Fashion Week Spring ’10. Contemporary Art Walks at Chado Ralph Rucci

September 12, 2009 • New York Fashion Week Spring '10

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Summary: Who needs contemporary art museums when you have shows like Chado Ralph Rucci's last night. The 55-look show unfolded on a runway to a tremendous crowd, and did not disappoint. When asked by WWD as the sources of his inspiration for the Spring '10 collection, Ralph Rucci himself credited light and transparency, modern dance choreographer Pina Bausch, expressionistic sculptor Lynn Chadwick, and the 11th century Japanese classic, "The Tale of Gengi." Though a seemingly broad spectrum of ideas to incorporate, Rucci pulled it off with a collection ranging from architectural to almost poetic.

His pieces served as canvases of artistic elements where anything was fair game: mohair, feathers, horsehair, and screenprinted patterns abounded. A particularly interesting element was the 'vertebrae' accent, a mesh
column on the front of piece with fabric snaking down in the shape an
almost skeletal like pattern. The details overall ranged from pronounced—a sprawling, abstract red rose against a filmy white chiffon gown or a black and gold checkerboard pattern draped over a kabuki gown—to the discreet—a floral petticoat peeking out from beneath a voluminous, golden gazar gown or the texture of a shredded tulle skirt.

Rucci also seemingly played with the concept of contrast, an already reoccurring theme of the season. Sheer panels balanced delicately over sturdier swaths of fabric, patterns crept down one side of a jacket or dress but left the other solid, and the whole collection resonated with the juxtaposition of light vs. shadow. Though few colors actually penetrated the mostly neutral palette of cream, beige, white and black, the show was saved from being aesthetically dull with the exquisite details and proportions that I'm sure could have been seen from even the top of the standing room tier. It was in fact quite the contrary, and I battled the crowds on the way out of the Tent feeling as if I had just been privileged to an all-inclusive, sensory experience.

Color Palette: black, white, taupe, beige, vanilla, grey, ecru, yellow, bronze, pale pink, terra cotta, pearl grey, eroded silver, red, citrus, print

Fabrics and Textures: mohair, chiffon, tulle, gazar, jersey, cotton, silk gros de longres, horsehair, linen, silk, silk faille, wool crepe, double-faced silk, wool gazar, organza, cotton pique, crepe, cigalline, paillette, marquisette, sponge crepe

Key Looks: white double-faced silk/wool gazar jacket, vanilla wool crepe coat with tulle insets, grey double faced wool crepe vertebrae dress, white pin-tucked cotton pique, tulle and organza dress, ombre silk tille paillete dress, black shredded tulle gown, black and gold kabuki gown, citrus gazar genji gown

Photo Source: NY Mag

-Alia Rajput

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