New York Fashion Week Spring ’10. Sensory Overload At Max Azria

September 15, 2009 • New York Fashion Week Spring '10

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Summary: There was a lot going on at the Max Azria 2010 Collection show. Aside from the fact that to many people attended, the collection was also too much. It has become apparent this Fashion Week that Maz Azria cares more about the celebrities attending his three shows than possibly the clothes (we had an invite to his Herve Leger show, and even though we were on time, were still shut out. It was a total madhouse). Missing from this collection was the concept that less is more. The slash dresses sported huge wide openings, so some models were in tube tops and some without, well…anything. This is fine for a runway but I just don't see how this translates in the real world, and I'm sure Max Azria would not want women to wear…a turtleneck (in Spring) under them! The boxy shapes in many cases were simply not flattering. These photos of the collection look beautiful from the front. What you are not seeing is the poor fit from the side view and the large open cutouts on the sides and back, some exposing a lot of back at the hip and all of the sides. The cutouts are also encircled by and accentuated with silver and there are too many.

I was hard pressed to find which looks really worked, and usually I find it is the opposite case at a New York Fashion Week show. The color palette was pleasing, all shaded neutrals with crystal or silver metallic accents. The black crepe jumpsuit had a fun modern space-age look but fell short with an out of this world unflattering shape. There were some gunmetal cage looks that were an exciting concept but overdone with too much cagework, the look did not deliver.

Some looks that worked in the collection were the simpler dresses in black, white or cream. The black wool slashed jacket and pants suit was wearable, and the final look runway look – a black fringe beaded dress was pretty spectacular. You can choose a few pieces from this collection that are interesting, but I would mostly recommend the Max Azria shoes and bags. The accessories were all fabulous!

Color Palette: White, black cream, dusty mushroom, dove, taupe, clay, grey, gold, gunmetal

Fabrics & Textures: crepe, silk, georgette, wool, silk knit, black printed silk chiffon, metallic cages of chain, beading, slashing, mesh

Key Looks: Black slashed sleeve wool jacket and black wool pant; Taupe crepe beaded dress; Black crepe slash dress; Gold/gunmetal cage metal mesh dress with black silk sweater dress; white silk chiffon dress; Black silk georgette beaded dress

—Carol Calacci

Photos: NY Mag

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