New York Fashion Week Spring ’10. Narciso Rodriguez’s Softer Sexy Side

September 15, 2009 • New York Fashion Week Spring '10

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Summary: By now anyone who reads us knows I am Narciso Rodriguez's biggest fan so it's hard for me not to be biased. In fact, I will admit this here. At over 8 months pregnant I decided it might be prudent to sit out the shows this year and send our staff instead. Except this one. For this show, my huge belly and swollen feet braved the tents. I was not going to miss this show unless I went into labor. Rodriguez is one of my favorite American designers bar none and my golden ticket was not leaving my bloated fingers.

My seat was up a few rows, but dead smack across from Courtney Love. What was she doing there? Apparently talking to her boyfriend the entire show. Still, the audience was filled with all the editors that needed to be there like, Anna Wintour, Suzy Menkes, Grace Coddington and Carine Roitfeld. Other notables I saw with my own eyes (but I am sure there were more there) were Jessica Alba, Tory Burch and Isabel & Ruben Toledo.

For fall '09 Narciso Rodriguez's theme was militaristic sportswear. This season he loosened his belt and found his softer side…and it was splendid. In fact, I wrote the note in the column of the line sheet "this collection makes me smile." The king of sculptural modern minimalism worked his magic in jaw dropping color blocked linen sheaths; a spectacular yet demure white silk linen jacquard pant suit; and a cadre of sexy cocktail dresses and flowing dress/gowns that were perfectly balanced. It was for sure his strongest, yet softest collection yet.

Rodriguez is usually known for his super fitted, can't gain an ounce sharp, clean architectural silhouettes, but for Spring he's letting his fans breathe. There are still plenty of fitted sculptural tailored cocktail numbers, but the silhouette of some of his crepe cocktail sheaths and his final three dresses that were shorter in front and gownlike in the back were downright billowy! What was truly awe inspiring was the subtle three-dimensional criss-cross piping and details that could be found on the sides and backs of many of his dresses. Even the fluid ones. Unfortunately, the photos do not show the
amazing detail, but trust me, women will be snapping them up once they hit stores. I am just so grateful I ventured out for this show. The grin on my face was evident for hours.

Color Palette: white, ecru, natural, jute, coral, pink, fuchsia, pale green, green,  burnt violet, purple, grey, silver, mercury, mud, black

Fabrics and Textures: linen canvas, cotton/linen, silk/cotton poplin, silk, silk faille, silk organza, silk crepe, silk mesh, satin crepe, satin chiffon, jacquard, embroidery, patent leather, rain silk print

Key Looks: Black linen canvas & silk faille jacket with a white satin chiffon top and ecru pleated silk organza skirt; white silk/linen organza peplum jacquard jacket pant suit; silk mud zippered cloth dress; green/black silk print dress; pink crepe dress; fuchsia silk print and black satin dress with a sheer black overlay; white patent leather embroidered/black & white silk cocktail dress; white silk embroidered gown; mercury silk gown

– Lauren Dimet Waters

Photos: NY Mag

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