New York Fashion Week Spring ’10. Temperley London Under the Big Top

September 15, 2009 • New York Fashion Week Spring '10

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Summary: In one of the coolest interpretations of a Spring '10 collection so far, Alice Temperley of Temperley London opted out of a runway show (for the second season in a row) in favor of an installation at Milk Studios. Inspired by the old time stylings of a thee-ring, big top bazaar, the theme manifested itself in many fanciful ways. A whirring, old fashioned zoetrope and a vaudevillian lineup dominated the otherwise minimal space. Mannequins posed dramatically against a stark white backdrop illuminated with a simple string of Christmas lights, as if riding in an antiquated circus carriage. Stylized in sets of three, the looks ranged from the ethereal to the almost macabre.

Through the clothes, the old-fashioned circus theme unraveled in everything from the harlequin pattern enveloping a blousy jumpsuit to the intricate detail of the brass carousel horses that galloped across a leather belt. Pearlized buttons were hand beaded onto black knit tank dresses and shimmered in the light. Metal studs decorated a contoured suit in an official, Ring Master-type way. And though the use of color was sparse, the bright infusions of red and purple did allow the pieces to pop. The sparkling, big-top themed zoetrope spun around projecting a film onto a bare wall. Featuring actual trapeze artists, contortionists, and dancers, dressed in the Temperley collection, the gritty film paired with the accompanied carousel music was hauntingly effective and provided some much needed movement from the static exhibit.

A few things I learned about the collection: The elaborate curlicued designs set against the mesh paneling were also taken from old fashioned carousel designs. The Spring '10 collection is the first to feature a long version of the label's purple, black, white, and pale blue net dress with its sprawling tribal design. Up until now the design had only been fashioned as a mini dress. This collection is also the first to feature Temperley's collaboration with footwear designer Giuseppe Zanotti. Zanotti's ballerina-like lace up heels and flats were topped off with a metallic wingtip at the toe, punctuating each festive look with an extra touch of whimsy.

Color Palette: black, white, gray, pale blue, purple, red, gold, silver, bronze, ivory

Fabrics and Textures: leather, knit, chiffon, jersey, tulle, lace, embroidery, piping, contrast stitching, corseted, striped, harlequin print

Key Looks: harlequin printed jumpsuit, red intarsia sweater dress, ivory cocktail dress with contrast piped seams and corset lacing, carousel horse leather belt, Giuseppe Zanotti flats

Photo Source: NY Mag
-Alia Rajput


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