Paris Fashion Week Spring 2010: Viktor & Rolf’s Tulled Wonder

October 6, 2009 • Fashion Shows

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Summary: The recession's effect on the fashion industry has generally evoked one of two reactions: designers are either playing it safe and designing to appeal to the masses, or they're completely revoking convention and using the economy as an excuse to be more conceptual and explosive than ever. True to form, Viktor & Rolf have definitely embraced the latter, producing a Spring 2010 collection that's exploding with bursts of deconstructed tulle, bedazzled satin wonders, and an '80s-inspired color palate of turquoise, and oh-so-many pastels. The stuff of high fashion editorials, many may rebuke Viktor & Rolf's clothing as unwearable or over-the-top, but there's no mistaking their sensational technical skills and aesthetically stunning approaches to texture, deconstruction and reconstruction. Tuxedo jackets draped in satiny taupe, mini-dresses textured with enormous, couture-inspired tulle embellishments – some angular and geometric, some draped and molded like flowers. Viktor & Rolf are masterminds of trend reinvention: at first glance, their Spring collection seems entirely devoid of any and all current trend concepts. But as you break down the construction of their looks, you see the universality of their foundation: tuxedo jackets, slouchy cropped pants, body-conscious dresses, sky-high heels. The genius is in their ability to constantly and effervescently evoke complete originality. A visual sensation, this collection is a glorious success and stays true to over-the-top vision that is so Viktor & Rolf.

– Amanda Aldinger

Photos: NYMag

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