Critics Applaud Philo’s Use of Clothes, Not Underwear, For Celine’s Spring Show

October 7, 2009 • Fashion Shows

Looks from Phoebe Philo's Spring 2010 collection for Celine

Yesterday marked the debut of newest head designer for Celine, Phoebe Philo. Philo's premiere collection for the label unfolded down a Paris runway to the delight of all that were privileged to attend. The house of Celine has had four chief designers since 1997, resulting in an inconsistency with the label's signature look. But Philo, whose last gig was chief designer of Chloe, did her part yesterday to anchor the label as a serious fashion force. The collection—made up exquisitely cut and tailored sportswear pieces—floored the critics in its simplicity and and no-fuss attitude. Cathy Horn of The New York Times wrote that the pieces, "put out a mature, confident, sexy vibe," adding her relief at a break from the highly embellished, over the top pieces that are often synonymous with Paris. Suzy Menkes noted that handbags, an accessory that many designers chose to include as a recession-friendly device, were noticeably absent from the collection, a decision Menkes approvingly called, "a bold move."  "This was an important exercise in making Celine fashion credible," Menkes said.

The other thing absent from the collection that critics seemed to fawn over was the use of underwear as outerwear. Runways in each of the major fashion capitals of the world have manipulated the latest underwear-friendly fad to their own image. Philo said she wanted to take step back from all that and focus on rebuilding an image for Celine that was unique and memorable, rather than coincide with the current popular trends. "I wanted to clean it up, refocus, and present a strong, powerful woman." It seems she succeeded admirably.

Article Source: The New York Times, NY Mag
Photo Source: NY Mag
-Alia Rajput

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