The Best of Berlin Fashion Week

February 8, 2010 • Magazine

The Best of Berlin Fashion Week

The Best of Berlin Fashion Week

Mon, 2000-02-07 03:00

5 Designers You Should Know

Heatherbelle Bridgeview

Only the fashion novice sticks with NYC, Paris and Milan for their fashion fix. The familiar names read like baseball cards and just about anyone can guess which usual suspects will appear. But those of us who are brave turn the frocks and finery found only in the collections of those who choose the avant runways of Berlin.

Mercedes Benz fashion week reveals the story behind the brains:

The autumn/winter collection 2010/2011 of Patrick Mohr concentrates furthermore upon the message Unisex. The differences between man and woman are not important to the designer – men and women form for him more than one unity.

The materials in this year autumn winter collection 2010/2011 are linen, jersey and jeans. A majority of the collection is dedicated to the concept of layering: the pieces can be worn arbitrarily with one another and one above the other. Besides white and black the colours blue, yellow and red take a key role this time. Central components of the brand patrick mohr are the geometrical forms of the triangle and quadrangle, as well as the parallelogramme which are expressed in the design till detail. In most models the symbols are to be discovered as a print or cut. Besides graphic forms the patrick mohr collection is marked by extravagance and individuality.

Clinging, figure-conncious, feminine – the short stage direction of the Designer Susanne Wiebe to the cut-studio shows at first sight, whereon the focal point of the collection is.

Susanne Wiebe exercises herself again and again in a venturesome walk at the borderline between classic and provocating: “Mixing materials with signaling effect, pleated fabric to lacquer leather, laxity to acerbity, strong-coloured appearances and the favourite colour black in all alternatives, fulminant artprints to black, Shanghai photoprints of the artist Hans M. Bachmayer in all fabrics to orchid, iris and bloodyred.

The fashion of Susanne Wiebe is at home in Europe, Asia and the USA.

“When trying to find synonyms for the term `love affairs´, there are countless possibilities. Amorous adventure, liaison, love story and love affair are only a few of them. For me, however,`love affairs´ mean something different. I am having a love affaire that will last my entire life. I have signed a sinful contract which will bind me to my liaison for all my life. I have entered an affaire with fashion which carries me, supports me and lets me grow, love and live.”

The autumn/winter 2010 collection is characterized by contrasts, which resemble the hidden life in a love affair. The collection feels soft, but sometimes looks hard. Then it feels hard and looks soft. Designer Marcel Ostertag has entered a love affair with fashion. You can see and feel that when observing the professional setup and the quality of every single piece in the collection. He has stayed true to his love for detail, and although the style of the cut resembles that of past decades, the collection appears modern and new. It is hard for the observer to define the collection´s look. And it is exactly that feeling Marcel Ostertag wants to play with. He does not want to constrain anyone or anything and is still trying to make a statement. It´s like having a love affair: In some way you´re free, but you still know your limits.

With the look of his A/W 10/11 collection Sascha Gaugel goes one step beyond. The two current collections Hausach Couture & Hausach by Sascha Gaugel are possibly the most progressive realizations of Sascha Gaugel’s designs for his label.

The designer was inspired by the typical gowns of the 50s as well as the whimsical and opulent interpretation of women in Frederico Fellini’s movies. As always, Sascha’s signature can be found in the delicate, traditional couture fabrics such as Taroni Organza and Duchesse contrasted by architectural shapes. This season’s creations from solely black fabrics seem like night-time silhouettes of a fictitious, obscure metropolis. Additionally, capricious cat-accessories as well as eccentric headpieces break the conventions and make this season’s Hausach Couture line a distinct piece of art.

The “Collection Bravade Autumn/Winter 2010” utilizes high-quality fabrics and materials, which are meticulously assembled by hand using processes with their origin in haute couture.

The collection posits a thrilling contradiction by bringing together classic silhouettes and fabrics with industrial, hard and almost brutal materials. “It’s a bit like baking cakes: the general ingredients and designs you use are always the same. It’s only by recombining those ingredients and carefully choosing the right cake tin that keeps the cake delicious,” explains Sam Frenzel. It is important for the designer to give clothing a new inspiration without neglecting perfect silhouettes: “I never forget to respect the laws of the female body. It is moving within those rules that makes every collection such an exciting design process.”

1. Patrick Mohr
2. Patrick Mohr
3. Susanne Wiebe
4. Susanne Wiebe
5. Marcel Ostertag
6. Hausach Couture
7. Hausach Couture
8. Sam Frenzel
9. Sam Frenzel

Photos: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week

Image Layout: Alicia Lee

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