New York Fashion Week Fall ’10. Mugging Mackage

February 11, 2010 • New York Fashion Week Fall '10

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Summary: It's the rare show where I covet every look on the runway. Often there are gorgeous outfits mixed with a few bombs, or lots of fantastic pieces peculiarly paired. Mackage, however, had a stream of hits to rival Madonna's early music career. Model after model strolled down the runway in fantastically tailored, feminine pieces, and it was all I could do to stay in my seat rather than rush the runway, rip the clothes off the models and make a break for it.

This was Mackage's first full ready-to-wear collection, and they succeeded brilliantly. The collection was largely an evolution, rather than a revolution, of trends. There were updated versions of this year's staples: the boyfriend blazer got a very slight puff at the shoulder; motorcycle jackets got a few frills to soften the rough-and-tumble biker look. Pieces were slim fitting and well proportioned; shoulders were sharp but not grossly exaggerated (hallelujah!), and cut out backs and exposed zippers are still going strong. I think patterns and checks are seeing a resurgence this fall, and a Prince of Wales check in red and in grey was a nice, subtle addition to a host of beautiful solids. 

As always, Mackage showed gorgeous outerwear. A marine A-line wool coat with rouching at the sleeves and a leather corset belt was particularly fabulous, as was it's counterpart, a marine wool military coat with a rounded hem. A fitted down coat with
fur-lined hood and cuffs was fabulous rather than frumpy, and supple leather coats and gloves abounded. All those who slept in or refused to brave the snow to see the first 9 a.m. show of Fashion Week missed a real treat.

Color Palette: Camel, cognac, brown, nude, off-white, gray, black, marine

Fabrics & Textures: Leather, wool, shearling, chiffon, fur; exposed zippers; studded bib necklaces

Key Looks: Camel dress with frill front; Camel cape coat with rib collar, camel studded pants and camel top; Nude dress with exposed back zipper and black gloves; Beige trench coat, nude chiffon top with leather detail, nude wool pant with leather knee patch and gloves

–Becky Ellis

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