New York Fashion Week Fall ’10. Yigal Azrouël’s Fables of the Reconstruction

February 12, 2010 • New York Fashion Week Fall '10

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Summary: If you came to Yigal Azrouël's fall 2010 show expecting to see his signature dresses you might have left disappointed. He is into suits and separates for fall 2010. I made a note on the column that is seems pleated tapered, yet slightly baggy pants are making a comeback big time and I'm not sure how I feel about that. This collection was much more tailored than his expected easy drapping, yet it was still layered and architectural. There were leather inserts, removable metal accents and feminine mixed with masculine…and I'm not talking about the men's fashions. But let's discuss the dresses of which there were a few. Azrouël had a Narsciso Rodriguezesque cut-out back dress which was stunning. I also loved the beautifully draped gris pebble crepe gown. The final pansy gown finished the show with an unexpected pop of color. Yet, if you are a fan of leather his women's jackets and pleated pants are sure to be major hits with his legions of fans. The men's Fair Isle longjohns were a bit much, but thankfully I was focusing on the womenswear, because there is no way I could take a man seriously wearing those.

Color Palette: optic, ivory, butterscotch, camel, pansy, dark shale, rouge, anthricite, lumber, marsh, nutmeg, chestnut, pewter, heather grey, kettle grey, charcoal heather, gris, russet, azure, corporal blue, ink, jet, black

Fabrics & Textures: jersey, cotton twill, washed cotton, washed silk, silk crepe, denim, knit, viscose, doublefaced cashmere, wool, stretch wool, boiled wool, felted wool, jacquard, tweed, pinstripe, leather, resin leather, cracked suede, lamb suede, embroidery, Swarovski crystals, shoulder details, bold shoulders, pleated trousers

Key Looks: Ivory compact jersey toughened trouser, pewter pinstripe slub jacket with matching pinstripe leather trimmed trouser, rouge doublefaced cashmere cocoon coat, pleated leather trousers, gris pebble crepe gown, pansy 4-ply crepe silk gown with gum resin leather trim

To see the entire collection click here.

– Lauren Dimet Waters

Photos: NY Mag

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