New York Fashion Week Fall ’10. Gary Grahams’s New Urban Layering

February 13, 2010 • New York Fashion Week Fall '10

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Summary: The space at Milk Studios for Gary Graham's Fall '10 presentation was totally packed, but I could not wait to enter the crowd. It was warm and slightly cloudy in the space and there was the smell of incense burning. I could hear piano music and was drawn to the bright light on one side of the room where the stage was set for the presentation. A group of six or so models entered and rotated. This worked well as I was able to see every look, and because of the heat and crowd in the room, the attendees also rotated, leaving me with a better vantage point up in front. It was certainly worth squirming into the polite crowd. These separates were urban, intricate, interesting, artfully crafted and a wonderful recreation based on old found objects which had become something modern and totally new. If Mad Max were a fairy princess (and a woman) this is how he would dress! And now this is how I will dress.

If you want to look at a collection to learn how to layer, this is the one to view. The layering of jackets, sweaters and coats over bodysuits, leotards, skirts, dresses and leggings was very practical and beautiful for fall and winter. Mostly solids with an interesting use of a variety of materials, there were two outstanding prints that were both reminiscent of Jean Paul Gaultier, which I think is a good thing. The craftsmanship on this collection was superb, especially noteworthy to me was the needlepoint tapestry coat with a built-in sort of necklace of cording, and the gemlike beading on the multi-color painterly W.P.A. print top that twinkled so beautifully and really must be seen in person.

Color Palette: black, gold, olive, rust, cream, red, multicolor motif from a rescued W.P.A. painting print, red, black and cream antique French handkerchief print, stripes

Fabrics & Textures: organza, crinoline, jacquard, lamb fur, leather, twill, silk velvet, chiffon, boiled wool, cotton knit, silk chiffon, silk jersey, needlepoint tapestry, tulle, alpaca rib, shearling, silk georgette, cotton jacquard, pleating, ruching, beading

Key Looks: Circle army coat, armor organza dress, bodysuit, crinoline; Twill and leather jacket, leather vest, silk georgette pleat dress; Cotton knit cardigan, beaded W.P.A. organza top, army skirt, rib leggings; Needle po
int tapestry coat, gold ruched dress

—Carol Calacci

Photos: NYMag, Second City Style

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