New York Fashion Week Fall ’10. Monique Lhuillier’s Year of the Tiger.

February 15, 2010 • New York Fashion Week Fall '10

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Summary: Every once in awhile, a Fashion Week show comes up that makes you glad to be a girl. Reaching back into the depths of all that is girly, one finds the most fundamental true hearts desire—the love of dressing up. And there are few designers that cater to that age old need better than Monique Lhuillier. Well- established in the bridal world, Lhuillier's evening wear evokes the same sense of emotion as it unfurls down the runway. Even for her fall collection—a tribute to the more masculine, structured style of Chinese warrior wear—her vision never strayed far from the romance and stunning femininity that she does best.

Was it intentional that Lhuillier chose to hold her Chinese-themed show one day after the Chinese New Year? Coincidence or not, the influence of the Far East was seen mostly in the opening group, where black, red, and gold dominated dragon-printed mattelasse sheaths, military-esque jacquard coats (complete with epaulets), and traditionally-styled Cheongsam dresses. The looks gave way to more casual fall fare with wool coats and pleated blouses. And then, Monique gave us what we came for in an onslaught of increasingly gorgeous gowns. Though not all the latter looks channeled the same sense of Asian elements, they still evoked the same sense of the exotic wonder that made even us grown women feel like little girls again, dying to play dress up. 

Color Palette: dragon print, gold, crimson, noir, black and white, dusty rose, shanghai red, gunmetal, rose, gold leaf, navy, bordeaux, smoke, ombre, jade, slate, merlot, deep plum, nude, noir rose, burgundy, gold floral

Fabrics and Textures: jacquard, tweed, velvet, tulle, crocodile, leather, mattelasse, wool, wool crepe, shredded wool, chiffon, horsehair, knit lace, wool lace, crystal, sequins, oxidized metal, silk crepe, lace, silk jersey, paillettes, organza, draped, hand stitched, embroidery, cascading, braided, pleated, corded, embellished, ruffled, scalloped, lacquered

Key Looks: Noir horseshoe floral dress with 3/4 sleeves, noir chiffon short sleeve sheath with jade ombre front, dusty rose floral embroidered dress, navy chiffon halter gown, slate lacquered metallic lace column gown with black lacquered braided belts, noir rose tulle gown with cascading tiered skirt and braided belt, black and nude pleated tulle gown with nude floral embroidery, burgundy ballgown with hand stitched organza strips, shanghai red duchesse draped gown with floral skirt

-Alia Rajput

Photos: WWD

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