New York Fashion Week Fall ’10. Naeem Khan Rocks

Summary: On a different day, Naeem Khan's fall collection could have looked more Upper East Side than rocker-chic: gilded, fur-laden and heavily adorned, it had all the fanciful, over-the-top trappings of a lady who lunches. But somehow—by way of the models' over-the-knee boots and dominatrix shoes, teased-top hair, or perhaps simply the 80s rock music blaring in the background—it all looked incredibly tough and enviably posh all at once. 

Like many others this season, this was not a PETA-friendly show: fox fur, ostrich feathers and crocodile were just a few of the textures thrown into the mix, layered with chains, studs, brocade and pailette patterns. But what could very easily have been much too much ended up looking just right, the luxe and tough details counterbalanced in exactly the right amount. Vests were everywhere: thrown atop skirts, dresses and gowns; both cropped and oversized; in materials ranging from leather to feather.

Supremely confident, very sexy and—dare I say—inspiring, watching this collection  reminded me of trailing after that cool older girl that I always wanted to be, and demonstrated again that it's not just what you wear, but how you wear it.

Color Palette: Black, cream, navy, red, metallics, gunmetal

Fabrics & Textures: Tulle, jacquard, fox fur, leather, wool, velvet, ostrich feather, silk chiffon, sequins, chenille, brocade, chain fringe, hammered silk, gaberdine, organza, paillette, jersey, beading, mosaic tile appliques, crystal, beading,

Key Looks: Circular metal paillette long-sleeve trumpet gown with crocodile brocade motorcycle vest; Circular mirror and bullion beaded sleeveless sheath with open back; Pebbled silk chiffon halter gown with necklace detail and high front; Chenille and gunmetal embroidered gilet with fox fur trim and grey flannel trumpet skirt; Crystal and filigree floral strapless tulle gown with ostrich and marabou beaded hoodie vest; Diamond pattern distressed gold bead slip gown in nude tulle; Sleeveless organza ball gown with abstract beaded skirt and crystal beaded v-back bodice

—Becky Ellis

Photos: NYmag