Budding Brits  

February 27, 2010 • Magazine

Budding Brits  

Budding Brits  

Sun, 2000-02-27 09:00

Standout designs emerge from London’s lesser-knowns, forecasting a Fall 2010 that is sure to please.

Amanda Aldinger

After a gloriously rousing (and snowy!) week of fashion in New York, the runway moved across the pond to London, continuing the wonderful extravaganza that is fashion month for the Fall 2010 season. 

London fashion truly stands alone. The eccentricities of the British punk/grunge/experimental aesthetic are always such a treat after New York’s shows – although beloved, it’s nice to see the shift in tone after a week of American sportswear. As always, the Brits have not disappointed; proving that after an exciting excursion Stateside, Fall 2010 will be a season for the books. Take a look at some of the freshest designs from the land of Burberry, Vivienne Westwood, and the late, great Alexander McQueen.

Jonny Johansson took Acne’s fall collection to a whole other universe – literally. Featuring cool, primitive, layered looks on models resembling aliens, Johansson’s super sci-fi aesthetic brought streetwear to exciting and imaginative new levels. Oversized jumpsuits with exposed zippers were layered with fringed booties and wrist-to-elbow metallic bangles, while peppered accents of fur conjured images of Haute Eskimos. This season, Johansson experiments with trends like the harem pant in entirely new ways, bringing fresh perspectives to last season’s favorite looks, while keeping them current and fashion forward.   

One of the most wonderful things about London fashion week is the veritable slew of not-as-known designers who inevitably crop up, exhibiting their hip, fearless perspective with thrilling results. Co-designers Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro call their Fall 2010 collection Haute Bohemia, in homage to their muse, Yves Saint Laurent – specifically his notoriously iconic Russian collection. Upon initially viewing this collection, my first thought was “gilded wearability.” The collection exudes a playful, fanciful nature, while playing with separates, textures and color in a way that is both British and timeless chic.  “Opulence for day-to-day life,” was how Inacio described it. Sign me up.

Goldin’s vision resonates impeccably throughout her super-structural, highly futuristic fall collection. Her exploration of silhouettes is divine – her ability to manipulate the expected forms of certain pieces is a wonderful to explore. Although edgy and aggressive, her looks remain wearable, possessing an effervescent fashion forward appeal that’s truly memorable. Accenting her mostly noir palate with slight splashes of sequins and fur, it’s wonderful to see a designer execute such a clear, unfiltered vision. A fascinating exploration of the potential for clothing indeed. 

Amidst the often edgy, futuristic and structural aesthetic that comprises much of London fashion, it’s refreshing to see a designer experiment with color, flow and prints. The seventies chic infusion into Olowu’s geometrically impacted knitwear exudes palpable playfulness and personality – throwing back to a time when people were fearless and prints were a way of life. Exuding delightful whimsicality and intelligence in its styling and photography, perusing through Olowu’s looks is a joy.  A lovely assortment of eyecandy, Olowu’s collection is gorgeous, fresh, and will leave one looking forward to his future collections. 

There’s a gothic, militaristic appeal to Aggugini’s Fall 2010 collection that’s almost geisha-like in its elegance. Infusing timeless silhouettes with an edge and a hardness, Aggugini presents a collection that is seductively constrained. Beyond the straightforwardness of his military inspirations, there is a flirtation with the unknown – suggesting that there is far more to the woman who dons Aggugini’s looks than meets the eye. Emblemizing the feminine mystique, this is a collection that is sure to be propel the designer into breakout success.  

Photos: Syle.com

Image Layout: Tiffany Carlin

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