London/ Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2010 Makeup in Review

March 6, 2010 • Magazine

London/ Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2010 Makeup in Review

London/ Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2010 Makeup in Review

Tue, 2000-03-07 12:00

Kelley Epps-Woods

The looks in London and Paris Fashion week set a bold statement for Fall/ Winter 2010 where smokey eyes and dark lips were a trend, but occasionally clean, bare faces with subtle soft makeup were seen on the runway. 

In London, some of these gorgeous trends could be seen at Vivienne Westwood where MAC Key Artist Gordon Espinet made a strong contoured and highlighted face the emphasis. Inspired from the photography of Penn and Avedon, the faces were shaped and shaded. Taupe blush by MAC was used as a key element, and was used from the eyes to, the cheeks and the face for contour. Lips were left pale and skin left translucent and airbrushed. 

At Todd Lynn, the look was more subtle and nude, led by Terry Barber, she said the look is “perfect, but in a very real way.” She wanted the makeup to imitate skincare. To achieve the perfect skin, Studio Sculpt foundation was applied to the skin and cream colour base in pearl was blended all over to create highlights, and give the skin a flawless look. Eyes were smoothed with full coverage foundation and white to give them a milky look, and brows were brushed up and set with clear brow set. Lips were so nude, they appeared to blend right in to the skin. 

The next day at Christopher Kane with Key Artist Lucia Piero said the look was more sporty and young. Skin was healthy against the very graphic black collection. Vanilla Pigment was a staple for the look and was first applied over the lids. Clear brows set and mascara and clear lip glass in clear was brushed through the brows and lashes were curled. The same pigment was applied to the face to highlight and lips were paired with lipstick and lip glass in clear, just dabbed in the center of the lip.

The red lip trend seen weeks ago at New York Fashion week, could be seen at Roksanda Ilinic. Keyed by Lucia Pica, the look was very soft seventies disco look done in a modern but fashiony-way. Gold glitter was pressed all over the lid and up into the brows, but the brow was just brushed up and set. The face was very dewy, with lots of sheen done with studio moisture fix mixed with careblend essential oils. Blush creme in Posey was blended softly across the cheekbones. The bold lips were done with MAC’s cult lipstick Russian Red, Spice it up, Cocachino and Lipglass Desire. 

Days later, the makeup by MAC at the shows brought in a little more color and boldness. Some of the trends were reminiscent of NYFW trends with bold lips, and strong brows. At Nathan Jenden, the look was tribal chic. Key Artist Makkyi said, since the clothes were already very powerful he wanted the makeup to have a simple statement but that’s still bold and modern. Eyebrows were very defined, with spiked or stud to create a strong bold brow. The lids were shaped to precision and winged out on the upper line. The face was very matte and iridescent with golden bronzes, and gentle highlights. The powerful bold lips were drawn in precisely and blended using Chestnut Lip pencil and Ebony eye pencil for dark skin tones. Pro Paint stick in black was used to fill in the lip. 

At Jonathan Saunders, strong, unkempt brows were key were the look was cool, almost nerdy like and as Key Artist Andrew Gallimore said “…like a beautiful Art Student Influenced by 1930’s Intellectuals.” Eyeshadow Copperplate was used on the lids for a soft grey and smokey eye. The emphasis was shading with no mascara and brows were left naturally busy. The face was beautiful and glowing and apples of the cheeks were soft and blown out. There was a pop of color placed on the lips with pink lipsticks, but was blended to just in the middle and the outer edges were mixed with pro lip erase so it could fade into the skin. 

In Paris, Milan we saw lots of bold statements as well, where some of the somewhat predictable smokey eye was paired with an unsuspected bold red lip or some looks where the lip was left nude. At DSquared2, Gordon Espinet, said the is “…the Helmet Newton Strong Woman Circa 1982” but “she’s tough and strong but beautifully feminine.” Feline Kohl Power Eye Pencil Lined the inter and outer lash lines to bring the key part of the look together. The face was transparent and matted, and lips were filled with lined and filled with Cherry Lipo Pencil, where lipstick was layered over it to blend it together. 

At Alberta Ferretti the look was almost completely opposite to DSquared, Artist Lucian Pieroni gave the looks a monochromatic palette with beiges, nudes and grays inspired by nakedness and nature. The girls were ethereal, but the brows were the focus. They were elongated and exaggerated and no mascara were on the lashes, only curled. Eyeshadow was very faded and Copperplate shadow was blended throughout. Face was nude, and creamy, while lips were pale and nude, done with Siss and Myth Lipstick, and was patted on top of the lips. 

One of my favorite looks at Paris Fashion Week was seen at Marni with Key Artist Tom Pecheux, where he said the look was like “a woman in a Modigliani Painting, and everything is very monochromatic in flat blocks of soft colour.” He achieved just that. The eyes had a very soft veil of colour using eye shadow in flourishing, and washed from lash line to brow. The face was transparent, and mineralized blush applied just over the cheekbones. Lips were drawn into the center for a diffused look with MAC Lip Liner in Spice. Eyeshadow Brown Script was patted on top for a matte copper toned mouth. 

At Missoni, the look was tied together from the looks of previous shows with the bold burgundy mouth. Led by Lucaia Pieroni, she said the look was “…a Little bit Scottish, a Little Masal and a little Punk.” Eyes were bare and soft, with the slightest shaded effect. No mascara was applied to the lashes, but brows were groomed upwards and set with clear brow set. The face was highlighted, and only concealed where needed. Where everything else was bare, the lips sure weren’t. Lined with Ebony pencil, they lips were balanced with a deep lip color, as Cyber and Hang Up lipstick was blended together to form an aubergine shade. A matte texture was applied over the top to erase shine.

1. Vivienne Westwood zuma press
2. Todd Lynn
3. Christopher Kane
4. Roksanda Ilinic
5. Nathan Jenden
6. Jonathan Saunders
7. DSquared2
8. Alberta Ferretti
9. Marni
10. Missoni


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