Zac Posen has been taking a lot of flack lately for his decision to only show his lower-priced line, Z Spoke, at New York Fashion Week. Posen waited to show his Spring 2011 collection in Paris at the urging of Yohji Yamamoto. The move seems to have not done him any good in any way.
Posen aimed to use couture techniques in his recent line, even describing it as "couture for day". Several critics described it as "[trying] too hard", "unfortunate", and that it did him "no favors". Christina Binkley of The Wall Street Journal thought that the collection tried to blur the lines between lingerie, couture and class, in which it ultimately failed.
"Perhaps it was the juxtaposition with the highly ornate ballroom at Paris' Westin hotel, or maybe it was the difficult comparison with the high-concept designers in Paris, but the collection tried too hard to grab attention with boudoir games…There were some apparent fit problems that may have stemmed from the complications of designing a collection in New York while showing it in Paris."
Associated Press likened the experience to a strip club: "The sultry palette of blood orange, coral and rich velvety reds recalled the mise-en-scene at Paris' classy strip clubs, like the legendary Lido or the Crazy Horse… Still, initial reaction to the show — which included a heavy-hitting lineup of top models like Carmen Kass and Isabelle Fontana — appeared mixed. Applause was tepid, and the A-list guests made a beeline for the exit as soon as the lights went up."
So, what happened to Posen? Did the bright Paris lights cloud his vision? While I do believe that the collection is bordering a bit on cheesy and overworked (and maybe a bit vulgar) side, I do not think that he deserved the criticism as harsh as he did. But being a celebrity favorite, maybe such criticism is warranted. What do you think?
Source:. WSJ ; AP.org