At this year’s Golden Globes awards, the world’s most famous Leading Men gathered together in their collective sartorial splendor. Some of them “led” us toward global status as “Best Dressed”; others led us completely astray. Ironically, the best and worst – in my opinion – actually took the same idea and just took it incompletely different directions. Let’s have a look.
The Non-Black Bowtie
Any man who has attended a black tie affair knows that it’s easy to blend into the sea of cookie cutter tuxes and ties. Ryan Kwanten did it right by opting for a subtle change in color and fabric. His burgundy velvet bowtie by Hugo Boss was his own personal “focus puller” on the red carpet. Current “It Boy” Ryan Gosling took it a step further by going oversize in Salvatore Ferragamo with his black velvet version. Although he lost best dressed points for constantly fussing with it when the cameras panned past him during the broadcast. You’ll note in the after party pictures that it eventually took it off. Modern Family’s Jesse Tyler Ferguson took it ten steps – in the wrong direction – with his Etro green brocade bow tie. His extra long cuffs and stark white pocket sail made him look like an untidy cater waiter AND put him on my watch list for worst dressed of the night. Matt Damon’s dinky bow tie – not at all in proportion to his shirt collar, jacket lapel, and – most importantly – to his bone structure also put him on the worst dressed watch list.
Ryan Kwanten’s Hugo Boss three-piece tuxedo was perfection. The button stances of both the waistcoat and the jacket were beautifully proportioned to his less-than-statuesque frame. The vest fabric that showed was also in direct proportion to the width of his lapel. Justin Bieber was skewered for wearing sneakers with his three-piece Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo, but I though the casual kicks were totally appropriate to his age and personal style. Although his tux was very well fitted to his teenage frame, something was completely off with the proportions. The button stance of the jacket was too low, the vest rose too high onto the shirt, and the super high notch in the lapel (meant to make a man took taller) threw the proportions completely off and brought attention to his loose fitting shirt collar and tie.
The Blue Tuxedo
Robert Pattinson’s midnight navy Gucci tuxedo with matching skinny tie was utter perfection and should set the sartorial standard for young Hollywood. The peaked lapel was a nice departure from the sea of high notch lapels of actors who can only aspire to his stature – both physical and celebrity. That he chose Marseilles grosgrain instead of the standard issue satin had those of us who care about such things swooning. This is how midnight navy should be done – subtle, sophisticated, and excruciatingly chic. Mad Men’s Jon Hamm was true to his TV character in his 1960s style shawl collar tuxedo in a lighter, brighter shade of blue, but the fit was completely off. His chest was busting out of the jacket and I was afraid all night that someone might lose an eye to a flying button. Spanx – long a red carpet staple for the ladies – needs to reach out to some of the men in Hollywood.
The Skinny Tux
Not all Hollywood actors are blessed with RPatz’s model thin frame. I won’t even get into Alec Bladwin’s potato sack tuxedo – with the potatoes still in it! However, certain actors who are blessed with a thin frame, the high metabolism of youth, or an older man’s solid commitment to fitness can easily carry off this otherwise unforgiving look. Andrew Garfield, clearly the sartorial standout among his fellow Social Network nominees, rivaled RPatz in how marvelous he looked in his Emporio Armani skinny tux (note the grosgrain lapels!) which he also paired with a skinny tie. Kevin Bacon achieved what many of us in fashion of – ahem – a “certain age” work so hard to achieve –the Dior Homme skinny tux. For those of you who believe that Dior Homme is cut on anorexic 16 year old boys, Kevin Bacon is the proof that you can – with proper diet and exercise – wear it too!
I cannot in good conscience allow this awards season to pass without speaking up about this much maligned accessory. Many men complain that it’s uncomfortable, but let me assure you that it has a very important function. As you may have noted during the red carpet interviews, there was an overabundance of white bellies glaring through the captions and zippers at the bottom of your TV screen. If you’re going to leave your jacket buttoned and put your hand in your pocket during your interviews, a cummerbund will blur the line and keep you from flashing your gut. Both Jake Gyllenhall and Cory Monteith ruined otherwise handsome outfits by flashing shirt. Gentlemen of Hollywood – please keep your shirt under wraps – and remember, pleats up!
With Red Carpet season just beginning, many more black tie wins and blunders are ahead of us. Check back to see what I have to say about it all.
Photos: WireImage, Jon Hamm Site, ZimboSee the Top Ten Summer 2016 Trends for Women Over 40
Tags: Alec Baldwin, Andrew Garfield, Cory Monteith, Golden Globes, Jake Gyllenhall, Jesse Tyler Ferguson, Jon Hamm, Joseph Ungoco, Justin Bieber, Kevin Bacon, male box, Matt Damon, men's fashion, red carpet, Robert Pattinson, Ryan Gosling, Ryan Kwanten, trends, tuxedo