Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week NY Fall ’11. Ruffian Dresses Dapper for Dinner

February 11, 2011 • New York Fashion Week Fall '11, Yahoo

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Summary: The premise for the Ruffian Fall 2011 show was semi-formal attire and a reconstruction of the tuxedo. The origins were explained in the program to that when the Prince of Wales in the 1800s, Edward VII, invited a prominent New York businessman to dinner at his estate, the businessman was given a perfectly tailored suit and dinner coat to wear. Once the businessman brought the suit back to New York, the popularity of the tuxedo immediately caught on. 

Ruffian explored the juxtaposition of masculine and feminine within the particular garment, playing with its dimensions and fabrics. The masculine side was seen in the reconstruction of the idea behind the tuxedo. The traditional tuxedo jacket was nipped in, bulked up and redesigned in patent leather and lace, while the traditional pant trotted out in ivory and plaid, turned wide-leg and even made into a skirt.  The feminine side towed the line between Deco and Edwardian, where ruffled collars were paired with swingy, fringed mini skirts and long velvet gowns. The idea behind the "Ruff" collar was explored further in the more modern construction of the Auden jacket and coat, which sported the same volume and three dimensional texture of the tiered collar.

I personally thought the reconstruction of the tuxedos was a little dated and has been seen many times before. But everything else within the collection with the modern interpretations of antiquated ideas was quite innovative and resulted in looks that were both artful yet wearable.

Color Palette: black, ivory, silver, champagne, merlot, prince of wales, iris, anthracite, metallic,

Fabrics and Textures: patent leather, silk charmeuse, silk stretch duchess satin, silk/wool chevron, silk georgette, panne velvet, silk, lace, hand embroidered sequin, corded lace

Key Looks: Holden Jacket in Black Patent Leather, Katreen Shirtdress in Ivory Silk Charmeuse, Monsignor Blouse in Black Silk Georgette, Liverpool Trouser in Prince of Wales, Auden Jacket in Merlot Silk, Ariela Dress in Hand Embroidered Sequin, Demoiselle Gown in Champagne Panne Velvet and Ivory Metallic Lace

-Alia Rajput

Photo Source: WWD

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