Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall ’11. Toni Francesc’s Flight of the Phoenix

February 12, 2011 • New York Fashion Week Fall '11, Yahoo

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Summary: Toni Francesc's Fall 2011 collection paid tribute to the most wondrous of fictional birds, the Phoenix. A confection of fire and flight, the Phoenix has long stood as a symbol of power and raw, unbridled sensuality. Francesc channeled these elements every way he knew how—from fabric to color to shape. Liquid silk dominated the collection in luminescent golds, reds, and oranges, cut loosely into blouses and pantsuits and poised almost as if to take flight. The fiery palette was anchored with calmer gray wool and black leather, the proverbial night sky against the phoenix wings or the magical ash the bird is reborn from. 

And while Toni is known for his experimentation and sometimes outlandish designs, he seemed to reel it in a bit this season, but for the better. Voluminous pieces were balanced with more tailored cuts, splashy water color patterns were paired with smoother neutrals, and the cuts were simple and chic. When I first learned of Toni Francesc's muse, I expected some questionable displays of interpretation (think: lurex bodysuits covered in bright orange feathers) but I was pleasantly surprised at finding a collection that was more subdued, yet in no way boring. A mystical character translated beautifully into real life.

Color Palette: orange, red, ash gray, black, gold, slate gray, maroon, black, ivory, dove gray

Fabrics and Textures: silk, wool, satin, silk charmeuse, suede, leather

Key Looks: Gold silk pantsuit, fiery multi-colored silk draped dress, dove gray suede blazer, orange silk wing-sleeved dress with cowlneck, gray wool cardigan

—Alia Rajput

Photography: Kevin Kane

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