Summary: New York's Exit Art was all aflutter for Simon Spurr's RTW menswear show this morning. After waiting outside in droves for the venue to open, the front row was a star-studded cast featuring Anna Wintour, Brad Goreski, Tinsley Mortimer and Ed Westwick, to name a few. Backstage notes for the models asked that they remember to be "sinister," and with the overtones of haunting music serenading the models, Spurr's Fall '11 RTW collection walked down to runway to immense applause.
Featuring classic suits that were impeccably tailored in luxury fabrics, Spurr kept this collection quite wearable, despite his experimentation with styling. His infusion of charcoal knit hoods and arm warmers added a poignant note of individuality — and an attempt at warmth that was undoubtedly appreciated in the midst of February's chill.
Like with his knit accessories, this collection reflects Spurr's keen eye for clean lines and well-tailored menswear, remaining a viable testament to his ability to expand traditional notions of men's dresswear — continually pressing the boundaries of the sartorial male gaze. A short, belted leather jacket with an attached hood (pointy, it resembled stereotypical notions of occult dress), was shown just after a three-piece pinstriped suit, Dickensian, save its shiny lapel pin.
Although Spurr's palette was nominally dark, he accented the collection with hints of color: on a pair of dark orange arm warmers worn with a tan suit, and also in his separates, with a golden yellow sweater worn with tailored slacks. Ultimately, the designer culled from European influences, not the least of which influenced this collection's sinister appeal. "I think the majority of people know the collection for its tailoring, clean lines, luxurious fabric, and sophisticated look," the designer said. But that's not to say that classics can't be modernized. "There is still a reality to how these clothes can be worn," Spurr explained, "but I have just pushed the boundaries of sartorialism slightly."
Bottom line, while Spurr clearly keeps trends and forward-moving design in mind, his ideal clientele are men with a confident eye for taste, seeking just the right amount of edge in their wardrobe. Trends will always change, and arm warmers can certainly be removed, but sartorial mindfulness lasts forever.
Color Palette: slate gray, charcoal, golden yellow, dark orange, sienna, brown, tan, beige, black, white, burgundy, amber
Patterns and Textures: knit, wool, leather, burgundy pinstripes, tweed, cotton, poplin, wool jersey, selvage, mouline, cashmere, fleece, feathers, mohair, fawn shearling
Key Looks: Grey mouline overcoat with leather under collar, black wool jersey v-neck t-shirt, black selvage five-pocket jean, black leather driving glove, black leather travel bag; charcoal wool/mohair banner-stripe three-piece suit, charcoal wide-stripe shirt, charcoal wool/mohair banner-stripe tie, grey cashmere scarf; black wool double-breasted sport coat with gold buttons, black cotton poplin shirt, black selvage five-pocket jean, black cashmere knit hood, black cashmere short fingerless glove.
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