Summary: One of the shows I was most looking forward to this fashion week, was the J. Mendel protege, Bibhu Mohapatra who launched his own label four seasons ago to critical acclaim. His construction, draping and attention to detail when it comes to his signature eveningwear is absolutely breathtaking.
The theme was Arthur Miller’s The Crucible, so the collection was comprised of complimentary extremes. Darkness versus light, savage versus sophisticated…you get the idea.
So I was surprised to find, when I walked into his presentation, a lot of daywear and outerwear. Er, what? Mind you, upon further inspection (which I love about presentations because you can get up close to the garments) the clothes were as expected…well tailored. There were wool jackets with asymmetrical zippers and a couple of attention seeking goat hair coats (a trend for Fall ’11), some metallic denim, not to mention the nail punched lather pieces that appeared to be studded, but weren’t. What was a bit disappointed was his evening wear. What a shock. To me it looked reminiscent of an 80’s ‘Dynasty’ collection. A bit over worked, over styled, over shiny and over Joan Collins. True to it’s description, the collection was two different extremes. I just pray next season Mohapatra puts his heart back into what he is best known for. Then again, it’s good to see him trying to branch out from the expected.
Color Palette: white, olive, emerald, cerulean, metal, gunmetal, metallic, midnight, charcoal, mercury, gold, black
Fabrics & Textures: chiffon, silk, denim, wool crepe, wool, nail punched leather, fischer, fox, broadtail, goat hair, raven print, lacquered tattoo
Key Looks: Dyed fischer coat with nail punched leather trim worn over a metallic denim skirt; bruise dyed long haired goat coat with with nail punched leather shoulder detail; charcoal wool jacket worn over striped sleeve sweater and draped wool trouser; olive and black wool crepe day dress
– Lauren Dimet Waters
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