Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall ’11. Narciso Rodriguez: Relaxed and Refreshed

February 15, 2011 • Magazine

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Summary: Ah, on to the show I look forward to the most during Fashion Week. I can't really explain why I love Narciso Rodriguez so much, but I do. Maybe it's because he always adheres to his particular aesthetic and point of view with little deviation. That doesn't mean his collections are boring or predictable by any means. In fact, quite the contrary. I grow giddy anticipating how he is going to work his streamlined magic every season, because it's always a surprise. This particular collection was strong and innovative. For one, Rodriguez showed a lot of color blocking in bold colors like red, lavender and cobalt. Two, he mixed textures in surprising combinations (silk and wool, chiffon and sequins). Three, he showed more pants than I ever remember seeing (mostly paired with ingenious reversible jackets and coats) from him. Four, he boldly showed flat, pointy-toed boots where most designers are still showing break-neck stilettos.

The fit was a little looser this season. Normally known for body hugging, can't-gain-an-ounce silhouettes, Rodriguez is letting us breathe a bit next fall. Mind you his body-con dresses are some of my favorites, bar none, and he more than delivered. Especially with his gowns of silk and chiffon that seemed to float from the body and had movement down the runway. Some of my favorite pieces were the grey plaid dresses and suits, especially when they were of mixed fabrics like wool with chiffon. They were truly innovative. I also adored the two-tone pants (clearly a trend for fall), and wool/felt coats. The suit tailoring was more masculine than we have seen from Rodriguez before, but it worked. His series of dresses with sheer chiffon were then the complete antithesis and extremely feminine. It was a bold contrast and one that worked perfectly. This collection I predict is sure to be a hit with stores and magazine editors next fall.

Color Palette: white, nude, ice, camel, khaki, coral, plum, red, copper, lavender, lilac, cobalt, indigo, navy, midnight, silver, grey, charcoal, steel, black

Fabrics & Textures: silk, silk fil, chiffon, wool, tweed wool, wool twill, felted wool, angora, cashmere, twill, poplin, leather, plaid, embroidery

Key Looks: Black, red and pink chiffon dress; pink, coral and black silk fil coupe dress with a grey and stone reversible coat; nude, red and copper silk chiffon dress; charcoal bias wool plaid suit with a black silk/wool cire top; grey bias wool plaid dress; ice, silver, platinum and black wool felt melange jacket; ice and grey silk chiffon dress; steel and black embroidered silk chiffon dress.

– Lauren Dimet Waters

Photos: NY Mag

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