Italian brand Brioni announced today that it would be ending its women’s wear line and with it, a contract with designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua.
An industry source told WWD that Brioni’s manufacturing plant in Congiunti, Italy, which was exclusively dedicated to the production of the brand’s women’s collections, will be shut down in September.
Brioni signed on Dell’Acqua as creative director of the women’s line in May 2010 to raise the profile of the line, granting the designer full disclosure. As a result, Dell’Acqua “selected only the most precious fabrics and materials” in his effort to relaunch the line.
The Italian label has recently been in talks with French luxury house PPR, about a possible acquisition. But sources inside the company are scratching their heads as to why PPR would want the popular women’s wear line to be cut off. “The collection was selling very well, and Brioni was planning to open a number of women’s stores, so I can only assume the entrance of a new shareholder was instrumental in determining this new course.” The source also noted Dell’Acqua was in talks to extend his yearly contract with a three-year agreement before the announcement was made.
Dell’Acqua’s show for Brioni is scheduled for Sept. 25 at 11:30 a.m. during Milan Fashion Week, but today sources are wondering if it will actually take place.
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