Summary: Of her SS12 collection, designer Jackie Fraser-Swan says, “Life can throw us a curve ball from time to time, and it’s up to us to decide whether to go down the road to darkness or to focus on the light at the end of the tunnel.” That idea of contrast: light against dark, urban vs. chic, downtown vs. uptown, are all over Emerson’s SS12 collection. While the color palate remained smooth and refined throughout — drawing nearly entirely from hues of navy, slate, black and white, with minimal pops of plum and cobalt — and the shapes soft and easy, it’s the intricacy and effectiveness of the detailing that shows a stylistic edge, hinting that Emerson is geared towards a multi-faceted woman to whom there’s more than meets the eye.
The show started off safe and chic, opening with a dove grey lambskin moto jacket and a v-neck black and white block printed dress (a recurring print that is at once both ethnic and animal-esque) and moved forward by bringing the leather from the first look into strap detailing that criss-crossed against a variety of pieces, from sleeveless dresses to leather shorts. This sort of geometric enhancement disrupted the otherwise clean lines of each garment, exposing an edginess and interplay with fabric that was both exciting and refreshing.
The styling aesthetic was on point: flowing, lightly curled hair was balanced against slate platform wedges with various straps and buckles. Some models wore thick, black-rimmed frames (very “lawyer chic” or stylish academic) while others sported gold, reflective gladiator sunglasses for more of a street style look. Quiet, but astute, Fraser-Swan’s collection was well heard. A woman’s world is inundated with contrasting moments and emotions every day — this is a collection that will take you through all of them, leaving you exceedingly poised, and, at the end of the day, just plain cool.
Color Palette: Dove grey, slate, black, navy, slate blue, plum, white, cobalt, metallic silver, light ink
Fabrics and Textures: Lambskin, leather, jersey, denim, calfskin, pleating, cage overlay, silk, lace, ostrich, checkering, herringbone, tie-dye
Key Looks: Black pleated silk cropped cardigan with a black/white asymmetrical hem skirt with cage overlay; purple ostrich moto jacket with a white spotted asymmetrical wrap skirt with cage detail; black/grey tie-dye denim vest with lambskin detail, a grey textured scoop neck top and black/grey tie-dye straight leg denim with strap detail; slate blue drawstring waist anorak.
— Amanda Aldinger
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