Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring ’12. Cynthia Rowley’s Diaphanous Disco Dream

September 9, 2011 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Spring 2012, New York Fashion Week Spring ’12

Summary: Upon walking into the Cynthia Rowley Spring’ 12 fashion show, one felt very much awake. Scintillating dance beats blared, the lights above shimmered and a gold mirrored runway pooled beneath our feet like liquid. It prepared you for any type of disco-laced incantation, an homage perhaps to the better silhouettes of the era, but what came down the gilded runway was actually a pleasant surprise.

Instead of taking center stage, the gold runway did exactly what Rowley intended—serve as the backdrop (the “optical exuberance” as stated in the program), to a theatrical and dream-induced collection. This was a moving, vibrant, animated spring boasting both florals and geometric patterns, layers of skirt to cover up and perforated sleeves to peek through, and silken tufts of fabric accented with gilded hardware. The fun of it was in its contained chaos— cartoon-like, brightly colored prints jumped off of white bonded pants and the zigzag of a rainbow lattice top peeked out from below an over sized tuxedo jacket (a subtle Disco Saturday Night reference perhaps?), each piece harmoniously working with the next.

It was as if Rowley took all the ingredients of what made spring fashion great and poured them into into an aesthetic pop of a collection. And whether she thought it up in the waking hours or not, it’s definitely my favorite collection so far and one I’ll be dreaming about for weeks after.

Colors: bouquet, zigzag, forced perspective floral, mixed botanical, distorted floral, blossom, multi color, smoky, flash mob, blue, white, metallic, gold, black, blood orange,, dream inspired print, ash

Fabrics and Textures: leather, silk, silk twill, silk crepe silk/cotton, chainmail, gold-plaited tulle, twill, liquified, bonded, cover stitched, embroidered, mesh, perforated, sport stitched, studded, pleated, gilded, gold applique, embroidered lattice, molded

Key Looks: Liquified bouquet tuxedo jacket, black/gold plaited tank sweater, white silk tank dress with forced perspective floral, henley dress with smoky botanical print, fractal plaited sweater stitched with metallic gold and black intarsia with gilded lattice silk/cotton flirt skirt, tulle perforated dress

-Alia Rajput


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