Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week ‘Spring 12. Katya Leonovich’s Urban Renewal

September 11, 2011 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Spring 2012, New York Fashion Week Spring ’12


Summary: There’s no doubt about it: Katya Leonovich’s SS12 collection has lots of personality. Although some pieces are more wearable than others, the overall deconstructed, urban aesthetic resounds. Rife with interesting texture, Leonovich experiments with shape and color in a way that is refreshing, entertaining and resonant of a unique vision.

Although I, personally, am not one for bleached denim, I appreciate Leonovich’s experimentation with proportion in her denim looks. Her simultaneous deconstruction and reconstruction brings new shape and perspective to an iconic material which achieves rebirth through her vision. Especially in an urban setting, these looks have an appeal that would happily exist as energetic and different: few accessories required, save some spunk and confidence.

While that may sound like I’m placing her aesthetic in a box, I find her multi-colored, printed looks to be much more exciting. Leonovich pulls from a unique palate — using recognizable colors in hues that are difficult to name specifically, but exciting to see in tandem with one another. I love her oversized blazer and adore the way that she drapes the fabric for her various dresses. Although busy, there is a softness to the texture of her layering that is distinctly feminine, even sweet — which is wonderful when juxtaposed against the model’s exotic, spiky hairstyles.

I enjoy this collection for its foray into experimentation with texture and construction. The styling is on point, the colors are well chosen, and there is a balance to the weight of the fabrics and the garments Leonovich chose to produce that would work well for the adventuresome woman who likes to shapeshift her look. Exuding strength of vision, this collection is the work of someone who clearly likes to have fun with design — I’m very interested to see what future collections bring.

Colors: Orange, lilac, cornflower blue, navy blue, golden yellow, gold, pale blue, white, red, plum, cobalt, fuchsia

Fabrics and Textures: Denim, chiffon, leather, prints, silk, jacquard, distressing, fringe, ruffles, draping, asymmetry

Key Looks: Multi-colored sweetheart-topped gown with pieced layering and asymmetrical draping; white leather one-shouldered dress with side cutouts and a fringed skirt; white leather blazer with a mandarin collar and multiple cutouts, with dark denim and bleached patterning; multi-colored printed tank maxi with seashell draping.

— Amanda Aldinger

Photos: NY Mag


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