Summary: Although Pamella Roland credits the inspiration for her Spring 2012 collection to American Abstract Expressionism, little of that is reflected in the clothing save the frames in which each model stood at the designer’s Lincoln Center presentation. There is a straightforwardness to Roland’s design that is finite: she deals particularly in red carpet looks, cocktail dresses, and elements of “business woman chic” with her tailored blazers and vests.
Although there is an exacerbated sense of artistry inherent to this collection — lots of beading, hand applied embellishments and an emphasis on textured fabric, like pleating — there was a disconnect between the garments themselves and the overall presentation of the styling. Roland’s streamlined aesthetic was obscured by the frames and over-sized, very structured organza hats worn by some of the models. There is an appeal to Roland’s clothing that makes it very sell-able, and the crafted details that pepper this collection are pleasing in their own right. But in this presentation, those elements were overshadowed by extraneous endeavors that distracted rather than enhanced.
I think Roland could have achieved an enhanced youthful spirit for her clothing with a stronger, more vibrant color palate. This would have matched the strength of the work that went into the hand beading, feather embellishments and asymmetrical lines more than the staid pale blue, a color which lacks energy and is not very flattering. Roland’s technical skills shines through in this collection’s detailed work — it just could have used a bit more power behind the styling.
Colors: Chalk pink, ivory, fuchsia, moon rock, lavender, white, stone blue, gold, sterling blue, black, pale navy, green
Fabrics and Textures: Canvas, cotton, chiffon embroidery, paillette, silk faille, georgette, beading, silk crepe, crepe, satin, sequins, grosgrain, pleating, organza, feathers, silk gauze
Key Looks: Moon rock and ivory ostrich feather beaded dress; multicolor brush stroke fils coupe organza strapless party dress; black one shoulder embroidered front dress with crepe fan pleat; lavender crepe back satin gown with sequin embroidery and piping detail.
— Amanda Aldinger
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