Summary: In a season that has been loaded with prints (sometimes to ad nauseum), it was a refreshing twist to see Narciso Rodriguez’s decidedly different approach to the springtime pattern play. The designer noted his inspiration had been taken from visual artist Kim Joon, whose bold and arguably bizarre pieces could have allowed Rodriguez to go really anywhere. What he did, however was toe the line between literal and figurative with a graphic, pop art collection that kept the audience guessing.
You could tell just from looking at the pieces that Rodriguez had fun with this collection, juggling out of box ideas on symmetry, pattern and dimension. There was a careful order to the chaos though, with pieces like structured jackets and tailored trousers reeling the collection in when the cacophony of pattern and color became overwhelming. There was a genius to the meticulous cuts of hemlines, asymmetrical but methodical, and the rampant color-blocking seemed designed with intent. Rodriguez seemed keen to show that everything had a purpose.
As a more subtle tribute to Joon, Rodriguez created off-kilter references to kimonos with delicate silk skirts punctuated with jigsaw-like swatches of color. He also seemed to consider the traditional appreciation of nature with a landscape palette of sea blues, cloud whites, and earthen red, orange and black. Jacquard gently spelled out wave patterns with velvet and devore made mountains and valleys with sheer, whispery layers. Overall, the vibe of the collection was innovative and cutting edge, and an accurate portrayal of the prowess of a true artiste.
Colors: black, white/black, silver mica, aqua, citrine, aqua/white/black, jacquard print, silver, black/aqua, black/orange, aqua/black, black/coral/nude/aqua, white cotton/aqua/black/silver, natural/white/red, black/white/red, black/red, hemp, multi/orange/black, red/orange, natural/silver, teal devore/viridian/aqua, nude/ice/teal, viridian/aqua/white/black, silver/citrine, white/citrine, silver devore/citrine, tangerine, white/aqua
Fabrics and Textures: silk marocain, silk/cotton, silk, linen, cotton, linen/leather, jacquard, silk jacquard, bonded cotton, jacquard velvet, velvet/satin, jacquard velvet/silk
Key Looks: aqua silk/linen wave jacquard dress, silver silk top, citrine silk bra, jacquard print/black silk skirt, silver mica/black linen jacket, red/orange silk marocain dress, hemp mica linen/white silk jacket, nude/ice/teal devore silk top, black/orange/red silk dress, white jacquard velvet/aqua silk dress
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