Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring ’12. Douglas Hannant Goes to Shanghai

September 14, 2011 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Spring 2012, New York Fashion Week Spring ’12

Summary: Designer Douglas Hannant’s inspiration for his SS12 collection was Shanghai in the thirties, partly due to the fact that he’s opening up a store there later this year. More than the styling, the exaggerated crimped hair styles and rich fabrics within his collection speak to this aesthetic, a contemporary version of his Chinese interests that is sure to work well on this side of the country.

There is a bit of discombobulation in the visual through-line of this collection, but Hannant has done an excellent job of producing a set of luxe looks that cover the visual gamut: from casual day, to business chic, to full-on evening gown. The Shanghai inspiration comes through in the dramatic presentation of the looks. A floor-length gown with a slit up the front and exaggerated shoulders with sheer ruffles excites, as does a very thirties-centric cocktail dress made from a sheer cornflower blue fabric with a feather-fringed skirt and printed gold panels throughout. Others of Hannant’s printed endeavors stand out awkwardly, feeling out of place among the other well-tailored garments which embrace a more chic, neutralized palate.

His work surely speaks to a more sophisticated clientele: the slim, chic businesswoman on the go. In a way, this bodes well for his international interests. After their incorporation into this collection, I look forward to seeing how his experiences abroad influence future collections.

Colors: Bone, black, grey, white, metallic, camel, ivory, baby blue, metallic black, cerulean, aqua, beige, rose gold, violet, mint, metallic mauve, blue/grey, rose

Fabrics and Textures: Lace, brocade, cotton, leather, sheer, chiffon, ruffles, pleating, silk, wool, jersey, prints, eyelet, fringe, leopard print, satin, Lurex, raffia

Key Looks: Blue/grey sheer fringed cocktail dress with metallic embellishment and gold paneling; silk chiffon high-necked sheer blouse with white and grey checked print, high-waisted white pencil skirt and gold chain and leather belt; floor-length metallic black dress with a high slit up the front, deep v, and exaggerated shoulders with sheer folded pleats.

— Amanda Aldinger

Photos: NY Mag

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