Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2012. Beauty Trends On The Runway

September 20, 2011 • Beauty, Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Spring 2012, New York Fashion Week Spring ’12

Another season has passed at New York Fashion Week, and Second City Style was behind the scenes covering SS’12 beauty and uncovering the trends that made the biggest impact. Whether it’s perfect, healthy glowing skin, a bright red lip, or a bold brow, we have the looks that graced the catwalks.

Bold Brows (left to right): Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Donna Karen, Derek Lam

It’s hard to go a season without seeing a bold brow on the runway, but I can tell you it is one of my favorites. It is everything opposite of feminine, but somehow the designers always make it look wearable. At Proenza Schouler, Diane Kendal for MAC, called her bold statement brow look, a “Combination of Belluschi Architecture and cars of the fifties”. While at Altuzarra by Tom Pecheux for MAC, called his look “Elizabeth Taylor at the Gym”, who’s focus was a very dark brow, used molder Eye Kohl and Carbon Eyeshadow by MAC, to shape an define a very strong, yet feminine brow. At Donna Karen MAC’s focus was on the overall look but a structured drawn in brow was created. Charlotte Tilbury called the look, “a Sporty, sexy eighties Yasmin Le Bon”.

Red Lip (left to right): Anna Sui, Katie Gallagher, Joy Cioci )

Not a season goes by where some form of a red lip is not seen on the runways. It is a classic look that can be achievable no matter the season, and instantly brings life to any look. At Anna Sui Pat McGrath was inspired by Rita Hayworth, on her red-centric look with bold red lip, by applying CoverGirl Simply Ageless Blush in Lush Berry to both the cheeks and lips. At Katie Gallagher, Javier Romero for MAC called his look “A blood stream look… Sanguine sophistication,” using MAC Pro Basic Red Chromagraphic Pencil and Lasting Lust Pro Longwear Lip colour on the whole lip. At Joy Cioci, a neon red-lips were the focus, where lead artist Uzo for Nars’ inspiration was “a free spirited woman in pursuit of love.’

Healthy Skin (left to right): Doo.Ri, Diane Von Furstenburg, Carolina Herrera

You can never go wrong with clean, healthy skin as a trend. At Doo.Ri Tom Pecheux called the look simply stated, “Goddess…”. At Diane Von Frustenburg, James Kaliardos kept the palette clean, by giving the models hydrated skin and lip conditioner lightly blotted on lips. Over at Carolina Herrera, the look created by Diane Kendal was referred to as “a fresh, Spring/Summer look” where model’s faces were left clean with only a little brown applied to the eyes.

Bold Eyes (left to right): Jeremy Scott, Holly Fulton, Rodarte, Marios Schwab, The Blonds

Bold, dramatic eyes could be seen on the runways this season, as it is quite the contrast to the fresh spring/summer looks. However, it brought a great balance to the fresh palettes and was pulled off effortlessly. Some of the highlighted looks included Jeremy Scott, where Val Garldand’s inspiration was “Daisy Duke goes to Paradise City”. With winged lined eyes at top and bottom  and black bold brows, the look was anything but soft. At Rodarte, James Kaliardos for Nars used, navy-blue, smokey eyes and lavender lips inspired by Van Gogh’s brushwork within his paintings, using ‘Night Fight Single Eyeshadow and Rue Bonaparte Large Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner.

Statement Lips (left to right); Jason Wu, Preen, Prabal Gurung, Jeremy Laing

Statement lips appearedon the runway, in various colors, like deep purples and and bright reds. At Jason Wu, Diane Kendal for MAC paired a lip that was so bright it almost looked coral, with a clean face and nude eyes. At Prabal Gurung, Charlotte Tilubry, described her lip as ..”as an Orchid bursting from within,” using Magenta Chromagraphic Pencil slightly overdrawn, and MAC Pro Black, Burgundy, and Fuchsia Lip Mix. Backstage at Jeremy Laing, Second City Style got a glimpse into the inspiration for his look that was created by Hung Vanngo for MAC. The main focal point was the eyes, but they were paired with a gorgeous coral/orange mouth, that was created using Navel Cream Colour, and topped with Lip Conditioner.

Wet/Slicked Hair (left to right); Alexander Wang, BCBG Max Azria, Ports 1961

Hair trends could be seen on the runways this season from updo’s to french braids to flowing hair, but slicked hair was also seen on the runways at several shows. At Alexander Wang Guido for Redkin gave the models a effortless high-shine, slicked hairstyle that she created to give them the look of a ‘nonchalant yet elegant downtown girl’. At BCBG hairstylist Neil Moodie for Bumble and Bumble drew inspiration from a “James Bond Girl”, and Bach’s famous ocean scene, where the blond beauty seductively comes out of the water. Very beachy I would say, but pairing wonderful with the hard and soft in Max Azria’s sporty spring collection.

Colored Hair (left to right): Narcisco Rodriguez, Thakoon, Peter Som

Very rarely is hair touched in a way where it is the primary focal point, but at these shows the hair was the main ingredient. A shoe to highlight was Narcisco Rodriguez where the inspiration came from contemporary Korean artist Kim Joon; color-blocking and spring shades. Because of the splashes of color found in the collection, Global Creative Director Eugen Souldemin for Well Professionals, said he thought they should color the girls’ hair in the strongest color found in their outfit”. So at Narcisco Rodriguez, could be seen with not only orange, but blue hair as well. At Thakoon, colorful french braids with texture and volume in many colors were seen on the models. Odile Gilber for Kerastase said, “Thakoon’s collection is all about a color sotry and she wanted the hair to make a strong statement to accessorize the beautiful, bright clothing”. And that it did.

Wild Nails (left to right): Jen Kao, Ruffian, The Blonds, Wayne

One must not forget about nails. Instead of clean manicured nails we saw nails of all colors and shapes, that some may say were quite wild, but paired wonderfully with the looks backstage. Some of the standout nails included The Blonds, where manicurist Kristina Estabrooks for CND, created “Glitz & Glam” manicures for a collection inspired by 60’s Playboy glamour infused with razzle-dazzle spectacle we all know and love. The 20 sets of nail tips took over 100 hours of manual labor to hand detail, and included a “Stockings Series” of manicures portraying fishnets, lacy tights and sexy seams. Vintage cosmic-shaped glass was imported from Germany to shape diamond-decadent nails that shined out loud in the spotlight. At Jen Kao Wanda Ruiz created “Lethal Love” diffused, gradation manicures that attract the eye with bold shades, but like a poisonous frog, have dangerous undertones. These manicures were shaded using an airbrush tool, but can be re-created at home using CND Colours in Midnight Sapphire, Anchor Blue, Rouge Red, and Green Scene each combined with Inkwell and topped with Air Dry Top Coat while wet for an ombre finish.

—Kelley Epps-Woods

Photos: NARS, MAC, CND, Estee Lauder, Getty, Refinery29, Wireimage

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