Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall ’12. Candela’s Gold Rush

February 9, 2012 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Fall '12

Summary:  Gabriela Perezutti of Candela knows a thing or two about working hard, both in and out of a design studio. Raised on a rural ranch in Uruguay, Perezzuti has a unique point of view in her designing which seems to toe the line between rustic and metropolitan. This season, she turned her lens toward the American Gold Rush of the mind 19th century and created a story in her presentation that extended beyond the clothing to the environment, the music and even the tin cups that were filled with champagne. The models seemed to represent the fervent migration of hopeful gold diggers to California and the South West, eager to “cash in” on the valuable metal deposits in the area. Nods to the time period were seen in antiquated fabrics like velvet and lace, Victorian lace-up ankle boots and even a masculine touch of suspenders. Southwestern and Native American motifs covered slouchy sweaters and chunky boots as a suggested homage to the featured area. And sequins twinkled from nearly every surface, as though to represent the legendary “California Dream” of being literally dripping in wealth.

I enjoyed the journey back in time that Perezutti and Candela presented, made more visible with a platform of old wooden beams that resembled the tools used to find another highly coveted natural resource: oil. My only critique was that the collection lacked a real sense of cohesion. Casual praire dresses and cable knit sweaters  stood alongside jeweled tunics and lace overlays. The Southwestern motifs, for example, though relevant to the theme, seemed a bit out of sorts against the rest of the pieces. As did the bowler hat. But as it’s own entity, each ensemble within the collection resonated with a purpose and I’m excited to see where Perezzuti will take us next.

Color Palette: wine, black, plum, navy, grey, camel, hunter green, antique rose, white, gold, silver, bicolor, blue, floral, Southwestern patterns, herringbone

Fabrics and Textures: wool-blend, slip, silk, silk velvet, sequin, lace, faux-fur, leather, silk velvet, silk crepe, chambray, netting, embroidered, hand beaded, velvet

Key Looks: matte silk sating moon print navy wrap dress, plum mini dress with pleating detail, silk chiffon prairie flower dress, gold and silver sequins skirt, hunter green cable cardigan with Southwest patterns, plum silk loafers, antique rose silk crepe blouse with metallic floral embroidery

Photos: WWD

-Alia Rajput

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